Exploring New Zealand’s Exquisite Subantarctic Islands: A Wildlife Wonderland without Humans

Having embarked on the Heritage Adventurer, an 88-cabin expedition cruise ship, I found myself engaged in a conversation about the necessity of combating the invasive mammals in New Zealand with conservationist Darren Peters. While discussing which mammal he would eliminate if given the choice, Peters paused to contemplate the question. Rubbing his leathery hands together, he expressed his disdain for rats, mice, and stoats, describing them as the most destructive invaders. Peters, on board the ship as part of a team of conservationists, aimed to educate guests about New Zealand’s unique ecosystem and the ambitious Predator Free 2050 project, which seeks to eliminate five destructive pests from the country: ferrets, possums, rats, stoats, and weasels. Prior to human intervention, New Zealand was home to only three species of mammals, all of which were bats. The introduction of non-native mammals threatens native fauna, making efforts to control these pests crucial.

Our journey began in Ulva and Stewart Islands, where we encountered the effects of invasive species. Ulva, for instance, had been infested with rats again, but efforts were underway to address the issue. Despite the challenges, the island still hosted native bird species, including the playful South Island saddlebacks, thanks to conservation initiatives. Stewart Island, on the other hand, faced conservation difficulties due to the presence of feral pets and attacks on wildlife by these animals. As we hiked through the Rakiura Track, we observed limited wildlife, but the beauty of the scenery captivated us.

Leaving Stewart Island behind, we embarked on a voyage through Fiordland National Park. As we sailed through Doubtful and Dusky Sounds, our guides shared stories of Maori legends and Captain James Cook’s exploration of the region. The fjord walls rising from the water, adorned with countless waterfalls, created a breathtaking sight. Wildlife thrived in these pristine waters, with pods of bottlenose dolphins accompanying our ship and fur seals and cormorants dotting the rocks. The dawn in Dusky Sound was especially spectacular, with a golden sunrise illuminating the fjord walls while rain clouds and mist added to the mystical atmosphere.

Despite the abundance of natural beauty, the invasive mammals left behind by settlers continue to pose a threat. Traps for possums and stoats were visible at our landing sites, a reminder of the ongoing battle to protect native ecosystems. It was a testament to the enduring efforts of conservationists like Peters and Lou Sanson, former head of the Department of Conservation, that large portions of Fiordland National Park remain untouched by human intervention.

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