At a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking a magnificent sea of canary-yellow gorse and delicate blackthorn blossom, tumbling down to the deep blue waters of Loch Fyne, a group of six of us unleash our inner wolves and howl into the gentle breeze. It’s a moment of exhilaration, adding to the euphoria as we approach the end of the longest run during our four-day retreat.
It’s day three, and our base at Auchgoyle Farm, once a dilapidated dairy farm but now undergoing a rewilding transformation under the care of new owners David and Katharine Lowrie, is the perfect starting point for our adventure. This hidden gem of the Cowal Peninsula is appropriately known as Argyll’s secret coast, where we’ve spent the morning traversing peaty burns, racing across dunes, and scrambling over rockpools along the quieter side of the peninsula. We’ve barely encountered another soul, but we’ve encountered roe deer camouflaged in thick bracken, osprey circling overhead, and eider ducks leading their young away from the shore.
Although Auchgoyle Farm provides self-catering accommodation in a two-bedroom eco-cabin built by David and a newly refurbished farmhouse, their running retreats offer a more immersive way to appreciate this undiscovered area. Over four days, guests of varying abilities and experience run between five and 10 miles a day, enjoy rejuvenating yoga sessions, explore a spa, learn about nature and rewilding through farm tours, and savor the delectable home-cooked meals and snacks prepared by Katharine and David. This aligns with the growing trend of active retreats, as Visit England predicted that people will be more inclined to spend time outdoors engaging in sports or leisure activities in the upcoming year.
Navigating the convoluted, claw-shaped peninsula can make one lose their sense of direction, as mist-clad peaks and islands fill the horizon in all directions. However, under the guidance of Katharine, we venture deep into ancient woodland and race against the tide along secluded bays without needing a map. On our third day, after our exhilarating wolf-like howling, we push our damp bodies around the hilltop Asgog Loch for the final stretch, admiring nature’s attempt to reclaim the ruins of a castle on its shores before descending into the charming hamlet of Millhouse and returning to our home base.
The ever-changing terrain and the thrill of spotting wildlife along the way keep our minds occupied, distracting us from the distance covered. However, for some in the group, this 10-mile run is the farthest they’ve ever gone, while for others, it’s a leisurely cooldown from a recent marathon. Either way, our endorphins are soaring. As we stretch around the farm’s cozy fire pit, we excitedly chat and mimic the flight patterns of the swallows and house martins swooping overhead.
The Lowries purchased Auchgoyle Farm in 2019, prioritizing the landscape over the buildings. Welcoming us with a feast of locally sourced venison and clapshot, David explains, “From the stream meandering through the gorge to the scrubland, deciduous woodland, and meadows, we saw its potential for nature restoration.” Now settled here with their two children, their journey has been guided by nature every step of the way. Auchgoyle is an active participant in Scotland: The Big Picture, a nationwide rewilding network. Once they had renovated guest rooms and the cabin for rentals, organizing retreats was the natural next step. Katharine adds, “We’ve always dreamed of hosting trips that get people outdoors, experiencing the intricacies of this diverse landscape. Running is our way to relax and disconnect, and the feedback we’ve received shows that more and more people are embracing this too.” Throughout the year, Auchgoyle hosts various trips for up to six people, including female-only and mixed retreats, catering to beginners and experienced runners alike.
On our second day, we embark on a bird song and farm walk to witness the progress of rewilding efforts. With over 20 years of ecological expertise, Katharine’s enthusiasm matches her knowledge. “The birds give me hope. We have so much more to survey, but the growing number of bird species is evidence that we’re on the right track,” she proclaims while pointing out distinct calls. We become attuned to the reeling of grasshopper warblers, the alarm call of a redstart, and the melodious tunes of willow warblers. We observe sand martins darting in and out of sandy cliffs created during wetland restoration.
As we approach a herd of eight sturdy Shetland cattle, carefully chosen for their “mob grazing” abilities which improve the soil as they move around the farm, Katharine invites us to commune with the cows and assist in their nature restoration efforts. Eventually, this small herd will also contribute to the farm’s sustainability through meat and milk production.
During our fully catered retreat, we prioritize sourcing from local producers and prioritize the origin of our food. Each morning, we are greeted with fresh bread from the local bakery Botanica at the Barn, and our milk comes in refillable glass bottles from Wee Isle Dairy across the peninsula. At lunchtime, permaculture farmer Nicola Sowerby enlightens us about the ingredients in our vibrant salads and herbal teas. This close-knit community thrives on a “gift economy,” where eggs are exchanged for piano lessons and herbs are traded for assistance with heavy lifting. It’s an idyllic and wholesome way of life that inspires us to jot down recipes.
As we continue on our journey, we engage in a bit of guerrilla conservation work, removing invasive rhododendron saplings along the way. We also admire an organic tea plantation and marvel at the seals gracefully floating in Loch Ruel during an eight-mile scramble along the lush, moss-covered boulders and temperate rainforest lining the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way. At the highest point of the run, we come across an impressive ark installation, built by Tighnabruaich’s Extinction Rebellion chapter to raise awareness about the climate crisis. Here, we take a well-deserved break, sipping on coffee and homemade lemonade. Eve MacFarlane from the award-winning Argyll Coffee Roasters joins us to shed light on ethical coffee production. This provides the fuel we need to conquer the remainder of the route and take a revitalizing dip in the loch before returning to the farm to warm up.
To complement our running adventures, local yoga teacher Kate Gray leads us through gentle sessions tailored to our group’s needs, promoting deep and restful sleep.
By the fourth day, we feel like part of the local community, waving and engaging in conversation with those we’ve encountered along our journey. We set off on our final seven-mile run to Portavadie Spa, where we soothe our tired muscles in steamy pools and saunas. Despite the rain pouring down on us during the last 20 minutes, our spirits remain high as we revel in the mystical scenery of Glenan Wood, a captivating patch of ancient oak woodland managed by the local community. We take a moment of silence to appreciate our surroundings before immersing ourselves in the spa experience. It’s a luxurious finale before returning to reality, but nature steals the show even in this setting. From the bath-like outdoor pool, we admire oystercatchers prancing along the rocky shore, gannets dive-bombing into the water, and the graceful breach of harbour porpoises offshore.
As we bid farewell and make our way back to Glasgow and beyond via trains and ferries, we carried with us a profound love for nature that sets this running retreat apart from others. It offers a simplified approach to health and well-being, allowing participants to embrace the wonders of the natural world while nurturing their bodies and minds.
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