When I moved to Spain a year ago, I had the pleasure of experiencing my first meal in Madrid. At this meal, I witnessed a young and attractive couple enjoying an intriguing light brown cocktail on the rocks with a slice of orange and green olives. It was early in the morning, and I was instantly curious about what they were drinking. They informed me that it was vermouth.
Before moving to Spain, I was only familiar with two types of vermouth: white and red. Naturally, I had to give it a try, and I was pleasantly surprised by the delicious taste. It was lighter, more subtle, and had a medicinal quality that was unlike anything I had ever tried in America. Little did I know, vermouth in Spain is much more than just a drink. It is a national pastime, akin to a pint in Ireland or mate in Argentina. It represents a lifestyle and is more of an activity than a mere beverage.
In Spain, there are places called vermuterias, where people traditionally meet after church on Sunday mornings to enjoy vermouth. In fact, the phrase “fer un vermut” has become so ingrained in the culture that it is used to invite someone for a midday drink, even if vermouth isn’t specifically mentioned. It’s remarkable how food and drinks can bring people together.
As I delved deeper into the world of vermouth, I discovered Reus, a Catalan city just south of Barcelona. Reus is known as the unofficial capital of vermouth and has a rich history dating back a thousand years. When a blight of bacteria killed most of the grapevines in the 1850s, winemakers in Reus turned to making vermouth to stretch their resources. Joan Tàpias Cors, the founder of Museu del Vermut, explained to me how they have amassed over 6,500 vermouth-related items from 57 countries in their museum.
In my quest to learn more about vermouth, I attended the Excellence Vermouth Awards, an annual conference for vermouth makers. Surrounded by passionate individuals who owned restaurants, bottled spirits, or simply loved vermouth, I listened attentively to Javier Fernández Piera, the event organizer, as he described the history and nuances of vermouth. He referred to vermouths as having ancient Greek and Roman origins, where wine was infused with botanicals to transform its flavor.
Noelia Callejo, a vermouth maker in Pedrosa de Duero, added that vermouth wasn’t as popular in the 1980s because young people wanted to break away from the traditions of their parents’ generation. However, there has been a resurgence in recent years, with vermouth becoming a more enjoyable and versatile drink that is no longer associated with the past dictatorship.
Creating a good vermouth is a complex process that merges art and science. Javier compared vermouth to tea, where wine replaces water, absinthe takes the place of a tea bag, and botanicals are added instead of milk, honey, or lemon. The botanicals infuse the vermouth with its distinct personality and taste. A well-crafted vermouth should have a light body, a balance between sweet and bitter, and a lingering texture that encompasses salty, sweet, bitter, sour, and umami flavors.
It’s interesting to note that not all vermouths are created equal. Popular commercial brands like Martini & Rossi may be familiar, but they lack the bitterness and complexity traditionally associated with vermouth. According to EU regulations, for a product to be considered vermouth, it must contain at least 75% wine, include wormwood, and have an alcohol content between 14.5% and 22%.
However, beyond these regulations, there are no boundaries in vermouth making. Ester Bachs, author of “Guía del Vermut,” explained that vermouth can be infused with various botanicals, such as gin, honey, hibiscus, or rose extract. The vermouth industry is experiencing innovation and creativity, resulting in a diverse range of flavors.
Excited to explore the vermouth scene in Madrid, I reached out to locals for recommendations. Bodegas Casas, a century-old vermouth bar in the heart of Madrid, came highly recommended. Passed down through generations, this bar offers a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, serving vermouth on tap with a splash of soda water. It’s the perfect place to indulge in vermouth’s purest form, without the addition of ice, olives, or orange wedges.
For a more charming experience, Taberna La Elisa is a tapas bar with a charismatic proprietor. Their vermouth is served on the rocks and pairs wonderfully with their delicious patatas bravas. Afterward, take a stroll through Barrio de las Letras, the neighborhood once home to renowned writers Miguel del Cervantes and Lope de Vega.
For a modern twist on traditional vermouth bars, La Violeta offers an extensive vermouth menu alongside an impressive selection of tapas. The knowledgeable staff is always happy to provide recommendations.
Ultimately, vermouth is more than just a beverage; it embodies history, culture, and craftsmanship. To truly appreciate the art of vermouth making, one must find themselves seated at a time-honored bar in Madrid, enjoying a glass of vermouth poured directly from the tap. The experience is an embodiment of the journey that vermouth has taken over centuries, adapting and evolving to become a beloved part of Spanish culinary culture.
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