Have you ever fantasized about having another chance? Wishing for a magical time-travelling machine like Dr. Who’s TARDIS to take you back to the late 20th century, before the digital age, political turmoil, and climate change? A time when hedonism was a bold and rebellious marketing concept, and air conditioning ruled with impunity. That’s exactly what it felt like on Thursday, stepping into the Tom Ford show during Milan Fashion Week – a trip down memory lane.
This was the first major show since Tom Ford sold his brand to Estée Lauder, passing the reins of the ready-to-wear line to the Zegna Group. It was also the debut of Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford’s longtime No. 2, as creative director. Walking through the tunnel lined with wall-to-wall carpet, it was like being transported back to the late ’90s, when Ford revolutionized Gucci and injected life back into Milan’s fashion scene.
Hawkings chose to pay homage to Ford’s legacy by recreating his iconic Gucci designs. The collection was a nostalgic tour through Ford’s greatest hits, with a touch of Yves Saint Laurent. Remember those slinky jersey dresses cinched at the hip from Gucci’s fall collection in ’96? They were back, this time in black with a bronze buckle belt. The rock star velvet pantsuits made a comeback too, in teal and raspberry. And who could forget the slick pencil skirts and silk shirts unbuttoned to the navel? They were there too, but this time in faux patent leather croc.
Every look was complete with sunglasses and stiletto sandals, adding a touch of glamour and sex appeal. However, the missing elements were the follow spot and the exhilarating feeling of embracing sex and power. Times have changed, and so has the world, gender roles, and the dynamics of sex and power. So, why dwell in the past?
Perhaps this collection was a transition, a way for Hawkings to show his understanding of Ford’s legacy and his ability to handle the brand. Or maybe it was an attempt to reclaim those iconic looks before a new designer takes over Gucci. Whatever the reason, it seemed like a missed opportunity to bring something fresh and original. After all, true seduction comes from the confidence of an individual point of view.
On the other hand, Prada and Raf Simons at Prada know how to reinvent the past. They presented a collection that remixes history rather than reproducing it. The show started with slime dripping down from the ceiling, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. The collection featured iridescent organza shift dresses, strong-shoulder suit jackets, and gold or silver carwash skirts. The garments were adorned with rhinestones and silver grommets, giving them a celestial feel.
Mrs. Prada described the collection as a blend of different decades, from the ’20s and ’30s to the ’90s and ’80s. The aim was to challenge traditional notions of femininity and masculinity and open up new possibilities. The combination of unexpected elements created a disorienting effect, questioning what is considered fancy, professional, kitschy, tough, or fragile.
In the end, it’s about shifting expectations and breaking preconceived notions. Fashion should push boundaries and redefine norms, not simply repeat the past.
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