While walking through Palo Santo forest on Genovesa, an isolated island in the Galapagos, I suddenly come to a stop. Just a few feet away, a short-eared owl perches on a wooden bridge, staring at me with its beady eyes and gripping the bridge with its talons. Surprisingly, the majestic creature remains completely still despite my close presence. This is the beauty of the Galapagos – the opportunity to see nature up close and personal.
The Galapagos is an archipelago consisting of 19 volcanic islands located 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador in the Pacific Ocean. It is famous among zoologists and ornithologists for the incredible abundance of wildlife found here. It was on these islands that Charles Darwin landed in 1835 during his voyage on the HMS Beagle. His observations of species like the giant tortoise and mockingbird inspired his theory of evolution.
Now, I am following in Darwin’s footsteps on a tour of the Galapagos Islands. My guide, Francisco Dousdebes, informs me that I can expect to see sea lions, boobies, giant tortoises, and gulls up close on Genovesa. As he says, “The Galapagos truly changes the mindset of travelers and allows them to fully immerse themselves in nature.”
My journey begins with a two-hour flight from Ecuador to Baltra Island, followed by a ferry ride to Santa Cruz Island, home to the Charles Darwin Research Station. Despite the warm breeze and 16C (61F) temperature, the landscape here is surprisingly arid, with cacti dotting the surroundings. It is a stark contrast to what I had imagined.
Nature thrives in these surroundings, unaffected by the presence of tourists. Sea lions relax in the sunshine while pelicans soar above the harbor wall. I board a bus that takes me to the highlands, traversing the mangrove coastline until we reach a reserve known for its population of giant tortoises. Here, I encounter hibiscus, citrus, avocado trees, and scalesia – magnificent daisy trees native to the Galapagos. The silence is filled with the sounds of yellow warblers, and monarch butterflies flutter about as giant tortoises munch on vegetation and wallow in shallow pools.
A short bus ride takes me to Puerto Ayora, the main town on the island. From here, I join the Galapagos expedition yacht La Pinta for a four-night cruise around the islands. After a welcome toast and buffet dinner, I retreat to my cabin and fall asleep to the gentle rocking of the yacht. At dawn, I wake up to witness the sunrise over the tiny islet of Eden off the northwestern coast of Santa Cruz.
The time has come for our first excursion on a Zodiac dinghy – a thrilling exploration of the coast of an islet that was formed from a volcanic ash cone. Though we are unable to land on the island, the coastline is teeming with wildlife. Sea lions bask in the sun, marine iguanas pile on top of one another, red rock crabs hide in crevices, pelicans gracefully glide above the azure-blue sea, and blue-footed boobies dive with precision to catch their prey.
For those seeking more adventure, the deep blue waters surrounding the island offer perfect opportunities for kayaking and paddleboarding. Alternatively, one can take a ride in La Pinta’s glass-bottomed boat, a favorite among children and those not keen on snorkeling.
Our next stop is Chinese Hat, one of the smallest islands in the archipelago. It was formed when a nearby volcano on Santiago Island erupted, spewing lava and rocks into the sea. On the island, we saunter along a 1,300ft (400m) trail that begins on a crescent-shaped white sand coral beach, home to a sea lion colony. As we explore, we encounter marine iguanas sprawled out like starfish under the sun and more red rock crabs. However, the highlight is snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters, swimming among white-tipped reef sharks and Galapagos penguins. I am mesmerized by the vibrant rainbow wrasse, silver sergeant major damselfish, brilliant blue king angelfish, and shimmering yellow-tailed surgeonfish.
The following day, we wake up before dawn to embark on a sunrise walk on Bartholomew Island. Named after Sir Bartholomew Sulivan, a naturalist and lifelong friend of Darwin, this island offers an extinct volcano with multicolored formations. After climbing the wooden steps to the top, I am rewarded with a breathtaking view. In the foreground, Pinnacle Rock rises out of Sullivan Bay, resembling the iconic Gherkin building in London. In the distance, I can see the enigmatic outline of Santiago Island, where Darwin spent six days. Santiago is not only a great place to swim and snorkel, but it is also a favorite among green turtles for mating and nesting.
The geological trail over a lava field created by 19th-century volcanic eruptions is truly fascinating. The twisted ropes of lava create an eerie landscape. I highly recommend taking a dip or snorkeling around the white coral sand beach, though beware of the numerous mosquitoes. Insect repellent is a must.
On the final day aboard La Pinta, we venture to Genovesa, known as “Bird Island” for its diverse avian species. After climbing Prince Philip’s Steps, named after the late Duke of Edinburgh who visited the Galapagos in 1964, I spot the hidden short-eared owl among the vegetation. But there are many more natural wonders to behold. Red-billed tropic birds soar overhead, while Nazca and red-footed boobies inhabit the seabird colony near the steps. At the end of the trail, I stand on a rocky lava plain, captivated by the graceful flight of storm petrels and frigatebirds.
According to my guide Francisco, Prince Philip described the Galapagos Islands as an “unfiltered wildlife experience.” I couldn’t agree more.
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