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Discover captivating anecdotes and fascinating insights in Fuchsia Dunlop’s book, Invitation to a Banquet, as she explores the rich history of Chinese gastronomy. From cooking 350 duck tongues in Oxford to experiencing fermented camel’s milk at a Kazakh circumcision party, Dunlop’s depth of knowledge and passion for Chinese cuisine knows no bounds.
Dunlop, the first foreigner to study at the Sichuan Higher Institute of Cuisine in Chengdu, has dedicated her career to inspiring others to embrace the adventurous spirit of Chinese cuisine. In Invitation to a Banquet, she goes beyond mere recipes and delves into the cultural, political, and religious significance of food in China, offering insights into key ingredients and techniques.
Uncover the story of Anji bamboo shoots paired with Jinhua ham, indulge in the sensory experience of yipin guo or “top-ranking pot,” and marvel at the versatility of qu in fermenting various items. From the influence of foreign cultures on Chinese cuisine to the delectable lousong tang or “Russian soup,” Dunlop presents a mesmerizing account of Chinese culinary traditions.
Dunlop takes us on a journey spanning millennia, showcasing the profound significance of food in Chinese culture. Dating back to the Zhou dynasty, food played a central role in the concept of the state, with the emperor’s diet and agricultural symbolism carefully prescribed. Chinese gastronomy evolved over the centuries, making efficient use of available resources to support a large population.
Today, Chinese cuisine boasts regional variations, from the fiery spices of Sichuan to the milder flavors of Guangdong. Regardless of the region, the aim of a Chinese banquet remains the same: to achieve a harmonious blend of flavors and textures. It is a tradition that combines food and medicine, with appropriate foods recommended for restoring balance in the body.
Dunlop’s writing brilliantly captures the vast array of values and experiences embedded in Chinese gastronomy. From tantalizing descriptions of taste, smell, and visual appeal to evocative portrayals of mouthfeel, her language paints a vivid picture. Delve into the world of Chinese cuisine, where videos are filled with “wet, squelchy, smacky, sucky noises,” and the texture of chicken testicles is celebrated as “exquisitely fine and smooth, delicately soft and tender, but with a certain springiness.”
However, Dunlop doesn’t shy away from addressing the dark side of Chinese cuisine—the belief that everything is edible, leading to the consumption of endangered species. From the totoaba swim bladder prized for its texture to illegally fished razor clams, the pursuit of rare delicacies has taken a toll on ecosystems.
While Dunlop’s passion for Chinese cuisine shines, she also tackles misconceptions surrounding it. Chinese gastronomy is often undervalued and misunderstood, with stereotypes influencing expectations of low-cost and mediocre food. Through her meticulous research and unwavering passion, Dunlop challenges these perceptions and highlights the true depth and complexity of Chinese cuisine.
Experience the culinary journey that awaits in Invitation to a Banquet by Fuchsia Dunlop, an enlightening exploration of Chinese food and its cultural nuances.
Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food by Fuchsia Dunlop Particular Books £25, 480 pages
Isabel Hilton is the founder of the China Dialogue Trust
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