That’s why the UNESCO designation felt like such a win. But for the brothers, it’s not a contest. It’s not about authenticity, either. It’s about connecting the dots for consumers who want to cook with actual Tunisian harissa.
Over the years, I have purchased various versions of jarred sweet sauces, dried spice blends, and smooth pastes labeled as harissa. However, none of them captured the true taste of the thick, Tunisian-style harissa that the Arem brothers grew up on – with its bold flavor of sun-dried chilies and its vibrant, Bordeaux red color, as described by Mansour. This endeavor is more than just a business for them – it is a mission to pass on the living knowledge of culinary diplomacy.
When attempting this recipe, it is crucial to use authentic harissa. There are no substitutes.
Mansour explains that the most traditional chili pepper used is called baklouti, named after the city of Bekalta. However, other lesser-known varieties are also utilized. After harvesting, the chilies are often strung together and left to dry in the sun, a necessary process that can take up to a month depending on weather conditions. Once cleaned and deseeded, the chilies are soaked in water, drained, and ground into a paste along with salt and whole cloves of garlic. Extra-virgin olive oil, coriander, and caraway are then added to the chilies, along with optional ingredients like lemon juice or vinegar for brightness and preservation.
This year, Mansour traveled to Tunisia due to the passing of his grandmother Béchira. While flipping through old photographs, he recalled the last meal she prepared for him – a hearty merguez stew infused with harissa (known as markat merguez, tajine merguez, or markat kaaber, depending on who you ask). The dish was a masterpiece, with pickled olives and red peppers floating in a deep-crimson olive oil pool, and flavor-packed meatballs bobbing like floats. It showcased the essence of his mother’s version, intertwined with memories of her enjoying her favorite show, “The Real Housewives of Atlanta,” in her pajamas while he and his brother played Nintendo 64, eagerly awaiting the stew to finish simmering.
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