Apricity, a stylish restaurant located in the heart of London’s Mayfair district, offers a unique and sophisticated cocktail: the fig-leaf martini. This exquisite drink is created by infusing gin with leaves from a tree near the home of the talented chef, Chantelle Nicholson. The result is a smooth and evocative cocktail that beautifully captures the essence of the fig without being overly sweet. I find myself savoring this exquisite creation on a rainy Wednesday, just moments before the restaurant opens, and I can’t help but contemplate ordering another.
Nicholson first developed the fig-leaf martini three years ago, when she discovered the incredible infusion properties of fig leaves. Being a martini aficionado herself, she decided to experiment with this unique ingredient and transform it into a martini. The success of this creation has inspired her to introduce a seasonal rotation of other intriguing martini variations. In the coming months, Apricity will showcase a brussels “sproutini” and an asparagus martini to celebrate the flavors of the changing seasons.
Although these martini variations may seem unconventional, they are subtle compared to the extravagant and sometimes bizarre martini concoctions found in other bars. From salt-and-vinegar martinis to beetroot martinis and even Thai spice martinis, mixologists around the world are pushing the boundaries of what a martini can be. In the United States, you can find squid-ink martinis, tequila martinis, and even pickle martinis. Some may argue that these experiments are taking the beloved martini to new heights, while others believe that they are diluting the essence of what makes a martini truly exquisite.
Alessandro Palazzi, the head bartender at Dukes in Mayfair, expresses his views on the matter. He firmly believes that the original martini consists of three key ingredients: vermouth, gin, and a twist of lemon. Any variations beyond these classic elements, such as the addition of olives or pickled onions, are considered mere embellishments. Palazzi laments the current trend of transforming martinis into fruity or overly complex concoctions. In his opinion, these creations have strayed far from the true essence of a martini.
Intrigued by the growing trend of innovative martinis, I decide to try my hand at creating one myself. I follow an Instagram demonstration by Jazzton Rodriguez, an esteemed bartender from Oklahoma, who introduces me to the concept of a chicken-soup martini. I sauté onions, carrots, and celery, just like making soup, and then infuse them in gin for a couple of days. The resulting “mirepoix gin” is supposed to capture the essence of chicken soup. To complete the cocktail, I add a bouillon brine and manzanilla sherry, stir with ice, and strain it into a martini glass. The carrot peel and a few drops of olive oil serve as an elegant garnish.
However, despite my best efforts, the chicken-soup martini falls short of expectations. The overpowering taste of salty chicken stock masks any subtleties from the mirepoix gin. While not unpleasant, the drink fails to impress my palate. As Palazzi suggests, some of these martini creations may be driven by social media trends rather than a genuine desire to enhance the cocktail experience.
The origins of the martini are steeped in legend and debate. Some attribute the drink’s creation to a California cocktail called the martinez, while others believe it was named after the Italian brand Martini & Rossi. Regardless, the martini is clearly an American invention, and the classic dry martini has evolved over time. Early recipes called for equal parts gin and vermouth, but today, the vermouth has been significantly reduced, with some martinis featuring only a hint of this ingredient. In films like Teacher’s Pet, even the mere scent of vermouth is passed over the glass rim, emphasizing the shift toward a drier martini.
At Dukes, a renowned establishment in Mayfair, the tradition of the martini takes center stage. The bartender brings a trolley to your table, showcasing the ingredients in their frozen state. Gin or vodka, along with a few drops of English vermouth, is added to a frozen glass. The bartender swirls the glass three times to coat it with vermouth, then disposes of the excess liquid on the carpet, a unique touch that adds to the theatricality of the experience. The glass is then filled with the chosen spirit and garnished with a twist of Amalfi lemon.
The magic of Dukes’ martini lies not only in the ingredients but also in the ambiance and ceremony surrounding its creation. As Chetiyawardana explains, attempting to replicate this experience at home would be futile, as it’s the combination of setting, theater, and expert craftsmanship that elevates the martini to an unforgettable experience. Pouring someone a generous serving of neat gin at home would be met with bewilderment rather than appreciation.
While some bartenders like Palazzi remain loyal to the traditional martini, others, like Chetiyawardana, embrace experimentation. The beauty of the martini lies in its adaptability and the possibility of endless variations. By exploring different vermouths, gins, and vodkas, one can create a truly personalized and unique martini experience. Chetiyawardana acknowledges the merits of pushing the boundaries of the martini category, even if it means incorporating unconventional spirits like tequila. Flexibility in language and allowing the martini label to encompass new creations can help expand people’s exploration of different spirits. However, he concedes that not all experiments deliver the desired results.
The caprese martini, for example, offers a twist on the classic cocktail by infusing tomato and basil flavors into vodka. After a careful process of infusion and freezing, the vodka is combined with vermouth, balsamic vinegar, and garnished with a cherry tomato. Recreating this martini at home, I find that the basil flavor is absent, and I question the suitability of olive oil in a martini. While the caprese martini is not unpleasant, the laborious 36-hour preparation time seems excessive for a cocktail that lacks a distinctive flavor profile.
In conclusion, the martini remains a beloved and timeless cocktail. Its origins and variations may be the subject of debate, but one thing is clear: the martini has evolved and adapted over the years. From traditional dry martinis to more adventurous creations, bartenders continue to redefine and experiment with this iconic drink. While some embrace the possibilities of innovation, others emphasize the importance of staying true to the martini’s classic roots. Whatever your preference may be, the martini offers an endless array of possibilities for cocktail enthusiasts to explore and enjoy.
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