The birth of The Vampire’s Wife came from the deep-seated need of a grieving mother to find solace in her work after a tragic loss. However, it quickly emerged as the must-have dress for models, It Girls, and society beauties. Prominent figures like rock star Florence Welch, supermodel Kate Moss, and fashion icon Alexa Chung became the unofficial faces of the brand, frequently seen wearing The Vampire’s Wife dresses made from shimmering fabrics, flowing skirts, and frilly sleeves.
But as the brand gained popularity among royals such as Princess Beatrice and Kate Middleton, and numerous imitations flooded the market, its rise in fame may have led to its downfall. The British fashion brand, founded by Susie Cave, the wife of rocker Nick Cave, has been issued a winding-down petition by HMRC, leaving the future of the label uncertain.
The success of The Vampire’s Wife was born out of a personal tragedy, with the loss of the couple’s 15-year-old son, Arthur, in 2015. He tragically passed away after sustaining fatal injuries at the bottom of a 60ft cliff near their family home in Brighton. The brand quickly found favor among A-list circles, including high-profile individuals like model Alexa Chung, actress Elisabeth Moss, and singer Florence Welch.
Despite years of success and celebrities donning their designer gowns, the fashion brand has faced a recent setback. Drapers reported that the winding-down petition stems from the brand’s accumulated debt during the pandemic, following a delayed tax payment earlier this year. Sales in 2023 were expected to reach £6.6 million, up by 38% from 2021, which had incurred a loss of £2.1 million. The brand’s court hearing has been scheduled for the 12th of July.
The designer revealed that HMRC rejected their request for a Time to Pay Arrangement, a gradual repayment plan for tax debt. The brand expressed its commitment to finding a solution agreeable to all parties and will continue trading for the time being. The Vampire’s Wife was established by Susie Cave and her friend Alex Adamson in 2014, a year before the heartbreaking loss of Arthur. They dedicated the following year to building a loyal clientele.
The tragedy left Susie devastated and convinced that her brand could not go on. She was bedridden with grief and believed everything was over. However, a phone call from Daisy Lowe, a family friend and model, requesting a dress for an awards ceremony, marked a turning point. Susie dragged herself to the office, made a dress from red fabric, and saw it worn and photographed. From then on, she started going to work every day.
The brand gained momentum as high-profile clients like Alexa Chung, Elisabeth Moss, and Florence Welch placed orders. Their collection of styles, ranging from £970 velvet dresses to £1,595 glittery party frocks, began selling out. Through her work, Susie slowly stitched herself back together, utilizing moments of escapism to create something outside of her grief.
Susie’s journey to establishing The Vampire’s Wife was rooted in her upbringing and experiences. Raised between Africa and Cheshire by an academic father and a grandmother who taught her how to sew, she demonstrated her talent by transforming her friends’ jeans during boarding school in the Seventies. Her modeling career began at the age of 16 in New York and eventually led to her marriage to Nick Cave in 1999.
As her husband’s career thrived, Susie found her own identity within the fashion industry, forging her path with The Vampire’s Wife. Despite the unimaginable pain of losing her son, she channeled her positive energy into her work, finding solace in the creation of beautiful garments. The brand’s success grew steadily, attracting renowned individuals like singer Katie Melua, actress Caitriona Balfe, and socialite Tamara Beckwith.
The Vampire’s Wife has faced both triumphs and challenges throughout its existence. However, its unique aesthetic, inspired by Susie and Nick’s personal tragedy, has captivated the fashion world. While the future remains uncertain, the brand remains determined to find a resolution and continue its journey in the fashion industry.
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