TIn the past, on Cassland Road in east London, there was a house that emitted incredible cooking aromas. This was over two decades ago when I would frequently pass by the house on my way to catch the bus. It didn’t matter what time of day it was – whether morning, afternoon, or evening – the smell of baking, simmering, or roasting would waft through the kitchen window, over the wall, and across the pavement. What made the situation even more fascinating (and reminiscent of Roald Dahl) was that I never spotted anyone at the window or entering or leaving the house. Who was responsible for these delicious dishes? And why were they cooking? Did they have a large family, many friends, or perhaps operated a small catering business? Were they content with their culinary skills or worn out from cooking? Regardless of the answers, their repertoire of dishes was remarkable, and the aromas of fruit cakes, pastries, caramelized sugar, rice and peas, hearty roasts, and flavorful curries would encircle like low-flying aircraft before dissipating with the breeze in east London.
Twenty years later in Rome, the scent of burnt jam and sizzling chicken brought back memories of Cassland Road. I found myself cooking in my bathrobe at 9am, attempting to avoid the heat and stickiness that set in by mid-morning, worsened by the watermelon’s ability to make any surface sticky. The burnt jam had oozed out of a tart, and the chicken was for this week’s recipe: a refreshing summer minestrone.
The word “minestrone” derives from the verb “minestrare” or “somministrare,” meaning to distribute or administer, indicating a dish that is spooned from a large serving dish into smaller ones. The suffix “-one” (or “-oni”) indicates largeness, making a minestrone a substantial soup. From countless regional variations, the Milanese version is a particularly beloved and delightful one to prepare. It begins with sautéing diced chicken, adding minced garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper right before removing it from the heat. This fragrant mixture rests while you prepare an onion, potato, courgette, bean, and red pepper soup, cooking rice in it, and then adding cooked beans and the chicken along with any collected juices from the plate. Finally, you let the minestrone rest.
The resting period is crucial – it should be at least 15 minutes, but can last for a few hours, allowing the rice to swell and the flavors to meld. During this time of year, there is no risk of the food getting cold, which is why terms like “room temperature” or “tepid” are more accurate than “cold” since the soup is meant to be eaten in that state. Some recipes suggest transferring the soup to a dish or placing upright spoons in it. However, this version is soft even at room temperature, so it is best served directly from the pan or a tureen. Of course, reheating is an option if desired, which will fill the kitchen with delightful scents as we hope for a breeze.
Summer Minestrone with Rice
Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
- Olive oil
- 200g boneless and skinless chicken breast, diced
- 1 small sprig of rosemary, minced
- 1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
- Salt and black pepper
- 2 onions, peeled and sliced
- 150g potatoes, peeled and diced
- 150g courgettes, trimmed and diced
- 150g red pepper, diced
- 150g green beans, trimmed and cut into 3cm lengths
- 180g arborio or carnaroli rice
- 200g cooked cannellini beans
- 1 handful of torn basil leaves
Instructions:
- In a heavy-based pan or casserole, heat two teaspoons of olive oil and fry the chicken until cooked through. In the final moments, add the minced rosemary and garlic, season to taste, and remove from heat. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
- In the same pan, gently fry the sliced onions and a pinch of salt in six tablespoons of olive oil until they become soft and translucent. Add the diced potatoes, courgettes, red peppers, green beans, and a liter and a half of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes.
- Add the rice and slightly increase the heat, allowing the soup to simmer vigorously for another 10 minutes. In the last few seconds, return the chicken (along with any resting juices) to the pot and stir in the cooked cannellini beans. Remove from heat, add a handful of torn basil leaves, season again if desired, and let the minestrone rest for at least 15 minutes.
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