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Tucked away in the picturesque Camargue National Park just south of Arles, you’ll find the enchanting La Chassagnette. This charming restaurant is owned by Maja Hoffmann, an art collector from the renowned Hoffmann-La Roche family, who is investing in her hometown region. The location is truly magical, offering a peaceful escape from reality. The outdoor eating space is covered with beautiful vines, and the restaurant boasts a stunning potager garden and an impressive greenhouse reminiscent of Kew Gardens. Everywhere you look, there are carefully curated plantings that create a sense of seclusion from the flatlands beyond.
The menu at La Chassagnette declares, “Here, our garden rules our creativity. Chef Armand Arnal invites you to choose, discover, and taste according to your preferences.” However, be prepared to indulge in the “Menu en 6 notes — Végétal — €121” or the “Menu en 6 notes — Faune & Flore — €143” if you want to partake in their culinary offerings.
As expected from a Michelin-starred establishment, La Chassagnette treats guests to a delightful array of unexpected canapés and unique dishes. For example, the “Eau de courgette, citron caviar et huile de verveine” showcases the pulpy essence of a young courgette, with hidden surprises beneath the clear jelly surface. Another standout dish is the part-cooked red snapper, accompanied by rocket, ginger, and nasturtium flower. While these dishes are undoubtedly expertly prepared, it’s possible to feel a bit underwhelmed if you were expecting a mind-blowing gastronomic experience.
The menu also features a standout dish that appears on both the vegetarian and non-vegetarian menus: corn and wild blackberries with Mexican tarragon and goat cheese. The sweetcorn is incredibly fresh and flavorsome, perfectly complemented by the restrained tarragon espuma and ripe blackberries. The dish is garnished with a small piece of on-site made cheese, which, unfortunately, fails to impress in a country renowned for its exceptional cheeses.
At La Chassagnette, the focus is on showcasing the beauty and purity of each ingredient, resulting in dishes that are both visually stunning and meticulously prepared. However, the simplicity of the dishes can sometimes leave you questioning their value. While the minimal intervention allows ingredients to shine, it can also lead to a lack of complexity and novelty in the dining experience.
What sets La Chassagnette apart is its commitment to hyper-localism. The restaurant prioritizes its garden and ingredients above everything else, creating a distinct sense of place. However, in this pursuit, the restaurant occasionally falls short. The tomatoes, for example, are not as exceptional as one would expect, compromising the overall quality of dishes like the tomato à la tomate and purple basil.
In many ways, La Chassagnette feels like a Californian restaurant that has been transported to France. While it offers a unique and pleasant dining experience, it may not be everyone’s cup of tea. However, if you prefer light, gluten-free meals, enjoy spending time in picturesque surroundings, and want a break from traditional French cuisine, La Chassagnette will be a memorable visit.
To learn more about Tim Hayward’s culinary adventures and get a firsthand look at the latest stories in the world of food and restaurants, follow him on Twitter @TimHayward and Instagram @timhayward. For the latest updates from our magazine, follow @FTMag on Twitter.
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