During his presidential campaign in 2007, Barack Obama attempted to connect with the farming community by referencing Whole Foods and the high prices of arugula. This incident, dubbed Arugulagate, highlighted Obama’s sense of elitism and his lack of understanding of Middle America’s food preferences. While arugula has never quite regained its popularity, the River Pavilion at the Hutton Brickyards resort in Kingston is determined to bring this underappreciated ingredient back into the spotlight.
Located just a stone’s throw away from the Hudson River, River Pavilion offers stunning views and a menu that heavily features arugula. After experiencing a significant closure due to flooding in December 2022, the resort reopened under new management and introduced a talented female-led culinary team. Executive Chef Paige Rodano, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and Executive Sous Chef Lily Burns, trained by renowned chefs, bring their skills and expertise to the restaurant.
River Pavilion, housed in a former kiln shed, boasts open sides that allow diners to enjoy the surrounding elements. The interior showcases industrial references with metal cages filled with bricks, reminiscent of the site’s history as The Hutton Brick Works Company. The concrete floors, black and gray stained tables, and whimsical overhead fairy lights complete the ambience.
During a recent visit, our meal began with an appetizer of roasted oysters, the only savory dish to exclude arugula. While the portion size seemed slightly scant for the price, the flavors were exceptional, with the warm oysters bathed in citrus butter and Meyer lemon zest. We then indulged in a fig and brie wood-fired pizza, where the fig achieved a jammy, sweet essence that paired perfectly with the melty cheese, and a kale and cashew pesto added a delightful twist. Unfortunately, arugula made an appearance once again, albeit unnecessary.
For the main course, a fillet of trout accompanied by fennel and arugula salad offered a creamy and sweet flavor, although the skin could have been crispier. The dish also featured a scattering of fregola, providing a burst of brightness without being overly filling. The lamb chops, served with a heavenly polenta cake, were generously portioned and cooked to perfection. The accompanying sauce, a simple blend of lemon, garlic, and olive oil known as salmoriglio, added an Italian touch. And, of course, there was arugula on the side.
As the evening drew to a close, dessert turned out to be the only disappointment. The olive oil cake, supposed to have a moist crumb due to the inclusion of buttermilk, was dry and crumbly. The figs accompanying it lacked flavor. Luckily, the ice cream provided a decent ending to the meal. Despite this minor flaw, the superb view and grounds of the River Pavilion make up for any shortcomings, elevating the dining experience to unmatched levels. With a few adjustments, this restaurant has the potential to become the envy of its competitors — a true culinary gem nestled amidst nature’s beauty.
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