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Manzi’s, a historic restaurant that originally opened in 1928 off Leicester Square, has made a comeback, and I have conflicting emotions about it. Back in its prime, Manzi’s attracted a diverse clientele, including notable figures like Joan Collins, Kingsley Amis, and even the notorious Kray twins. It was a popular spot for people to grab a fish supper after a pantomime show or for Soho locals to enjoy a meal.
However, Manzi’s eventually closed its doors in 2006 due to a decline in popularity. Former restaurant critic John Lanchester described it as “historically terrible” when it was taken over by St John Hotel in 2011. Despite never having dined at Manzi’s myself, I can only rely on other people’s nostalgia when it comes to fueling my enthusiasm for its relaunch. But can nostalgia alone revive a restaurant, especially when its original creator is no longer involved?
London restaurateur Jeremy King initially envisioned and secured the location for the new Manzi’s at Bateman Buildings, just off Soho Square. King and his business partner Chris Corbin have been behind the success of various beloved establishments such as The Wolseley, The Delaunay, Brasserie Zedel, Fischer’s, Colbert, Bellanger, and Soutine. However, in April 2022, they left the company due to conflicts with their investment partner, Minor International Public Company Limited. The restaurants now operate under the Wolseley Hospitality Group, owned by Minor International.
The question of “what would Jeremy have done?” lingers heavily in the hospitality industry concerning Manzi’s 2.0. This project, which King was unable to see through, marks the first new venture from the Wolseley Hospitality Group since his departure. King’s vision for the new Manzi’s was to preserve the fun and lively atmosphere of its predecessor. However, one might question whether he would have approved of the full-size taxidermy marlin on display in the foyer, the imposing alabaster Poseidon overseeing a table on the ground floor, and the four mermaid statues adorning the first-floor bar. While these kitschy elements are balanced out by more subtly nautical details like rope accents and blue wave tiling, the revived Manzi’s occasionally feels more like a theme park than a restaurant (albeit with a “Little Mermaid” theme).
The menu at Manzi’s is extensive and offers a variety of options. There are numerous crustacean dishes, sandwiches, and a selection of raw, cured, and smoked fish as starters. The main courses mainly focus on seafood specialties like monkfish wellington and cioppino fish stew, but vegetarian, vegan, lamb, rib-eye steak, and roast chicken options are also available.
During my visit, I started with Jersey rock oysters, Newcastle brown clams, and roast scallops, which were satisfactory but not exceptional. Shellfish should always be sensational, but these dishes fell short of that expectation. The scallops, in particular, were lukewarm and seemed as though they had been sitting out before being served. We also had a perplexing starter of leeks mimosa, which consisted of thin strips of leek in a yellow-green vinaigrette topped with deviled eggs. If this is considered a timeless classic, I believe it’s time to retire it.
However, things improved with the main courses. The whole sea bream was beautifully cooked and accompanied by a few broccoli florets. It was delicious. The Arbroath smoked haddock soufflé, while not visually appealing, was rich, creamy, and served alongside a perfect gem heart salad. Out of curiosity, I also ordered Manzi’s fish and chips, which featured haddock goujons in breadcrumbs and wedge chips served in a large paper cone. Greedily, I also requested a side of French fries. Unfortunately, both the chips and fries at Manzi’s were disappointing.
The dessert menu exclusively offers retro puddings such as fruit cocktail jelly, tiramisu, black forest gâteau, summer pudding, brandy snaps, strawberry and cream tart, Arctic roll, peach melba, and knickerbocker glory. We tried the black forest gâteau and strawberry tart. The tart came with a coulis that was overly sweet and lacking depth. As for the black forest gâteau, it initially evoked nostalgia from the 1980s, but after a couple of bites, its cloying creaminess and cherry flavor became overwhelming.
The staff at Manzi’s were friendly and knowledgeable, and the wine and cocktail lists were extensive. While the restaurant doesn’t aim for the grandeur of The Wolseley or The Delaunay, it has the potential to become a popular destination for tourists and the curious due to its nostalgic and fun ambiance. However, it remains to be seen whether this establishment can truly live up to the legacy of Manzi’s.
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