Fuchsia Dunlop, the renowned English food writer, has invited me to join her for a dim sum banquet at the Royal China Club in central London. Upon entering the restaurant, Dunlop efficiently communicates with the waiter in Mandarin, ensuring that our table is filled with an array of mouthwatering dishes. We start with oolong tea, followed by delicious char sui pork pastry puffs and surprisingly tasty turnip cakes. Our meal continues with a Barbie-pink cheung fun stuffed with crispy seafood and a bamboo basket filled with sui mai dumplings topped with crab roe. As I begin to crave some vegetables, a plate of Chinese broccoli dressed in ginger arrives, providing a refreshing break from the meat dishes.
While not every reader will have the opportunity to dine with Dunlop and experience her curated feast, her new book, “Invitation to a Banquet,” aims to introduce Western eaters to the diverse and sometimes intimidating world of Chinese cuisine. Over the course of 30 years exploring China, Dunlop has become a culinary ambassador, similar to Elizabeth David and Claudia Roden in their respective regions.
After enjoying our multi-course meal, Dunlop explains the careful thought she puts into selecting dishes when dining at a Chinese restaurant. She compares the process to composing a symphony, with each dish contributing to a harmonious and balanced meal. One of the biggest mistakes British diners make, she warns, is allowing everyone to choose one dish each, resulting in repetitive or unbalanced flavors. Instead, Dunlop recommends having a masterplan that includes a variety of main ingredients, cooking methods, flavors, colors, and textures for a truly enjoyable meal.
Despite her emphasis on variety, Dunlop insists that there are no strict rules when it comes to Chinese cuisine. However, she advises incorporating a range of ingredients, flavors, and cooking techniques to create a diverse and satisfying meal. By intentionally choosing dishes with different methods of cooking and a mix of ingredients, such as pork, chicken, seafood, and vegetables, Dunlop ensures a healthy and visually appealing dining experience.
Dunlop, with her tall stature and poised demeanor, exudes a teacher-like aura. Her passion for sharing knowledge and ideas is evident in her extensive career as a food writer. Starting with restaurant reviews in London in the 1990s, Dunlop has since published cookbooks on Sichuan and Hunan cuisine and a memoir about her travels in China. Her latest book, “Invitation to a Banquet,” showcases her deep understanding of Chinese food and aims to dispel common misconceptions about it, such as its alleged unhealthiness and cruelty.
One misconception that Dunlop hopes to address is the aversion to certain textures in Chinese cuisine. She orders chicken feet during our meal, acknowledging that it is a dish that many Westerners find unappealing. However, she believes that the texture of chicken feet, or other “slithery” ingredients like jellyfish, is an integral part of Chinese gastronomy that shouldn’t be overlooked. Dunlop encourages diners to embrace the unique textures and mouthfeel of these dishes, as they offer a new level of pleasure and expand the possibilities of enjoyment.
Dunlop’s fascination with Chinese cuisine began during her childhood in Oxford, where her mother taught English as a foreign language and often invited international students to share meals and exchange recipes. These early experiences sparked Dunlop’s curiosity about different cultures and flavors. Her passion grew during her visits to China in the early 1990s, where she discovered the complexity and sophistication of Chinese dishes beyond the typical sweet-and-sour pork balls. Eventually, Dunlop’s love for Chinese food led her to study in Chengdu, Sichuan, and immerse herself in the country’s culinary traditions.
In “Invitation to a Banquet,” Dunlop combines her personal experiences and knowledge gained over three decades of exploring China to provide readers with a history of Chinese cuisine through classic dishes. Her aim is to correct misconceptions and showcase the diverse and extraordinary flavors that Chinese food has to offer. By challenging diners to embrace new textures and flavors, Dunlop hopes to open up a world of pleasure and expand the possibilities of gastronomic enjoyment.
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