In the fridge sits a dish filled with mackerel fillets. The fillets have a stunning appearance with their silver, black, and blue skin, covered by a tangle of pink onions, mustard seeds, and juniper berries. They have soaked overnight in a bath of tarragon vinegar, sea salt, sugar, and bay, rendering their flesh soft and “cooked.” Soon, these mackerel fillets will grace the table alongside doorstop slices of dark rye bread and a bowl of potato salad – a proper one with steamed skin-on potatoes, flavorful mayonnaise (with a hint of mustard), and delicate dill garnish.
There’s something special about food that waits for us. Take, for example, a coarse pork terrine that rests in the fridge, ready to be sliced and enjoyed with pickles and toast. Or a bean and vegetable soup whose flavors mellow overnight and can be easily reheated to suit your cravings. And let’s not forget the luscious late-summer pudding made with blackberries and raspberries, which can be enjoyed over several days, with each bite offering new delights.
This week, the fridge also harbors an easygoing cake batter that has been allowed to rest overnight, resulting in soft, shallow cakes that are nutty, buttery, and delightfully crunchy with demerara sugar. We savored these cakes alongside late plums, enjoying their tart, scarlet juices.
Neither of these recipes is time-sensitive; you can keep the mackerel for a day or two, and the cake batter can be baked the day after it’s made. Of course, you can bake it the same day if you wish, but the cakes may not hold their shape as well. Like the mackerel, they will benefit from a moment of rest.
Marinated Mackerel:
This is an essential dish to have in your fridge. I recommend using stainless steel or enamelled saucepans and dishes, as aluminum may react with the vinegar. For a different twist, you can serve the fish warm. Once you pour the marinade over the mackerel, bake it at 180C/gas mark 4 for about 20 minutes, then serve it in its flavorful juices alongside sautéed potatoes. This recipe serves 3.
Ingredients:
– 3 mackerel fillets
– 1 small red onion
– 150ml tarragon vinegar
– 50ml white vermouth or white wine
– 12 juniper berries
– 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
– 6 white peppercorns
– 12 black peppercorns
– 1 tbsp caster sugar
– 3 bay leaves
Instructions:
1. Rinse the mackerel fillets and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Arrange them in a shallow, non-aluminum dish.
2. Peel the onion and thinly slice it. Place it in a saucepan along with the vinegar, vermouth or white wine, juniper berries, yellow mustard seeds, and peppercorns. Add the sugar, bay leaves, and a pinch of salt.
3. Bring the marinade to a boil. While it’s boiling, pour it over the mackerel fillets, ensuring they are fully covered. Add enough water to just cover the fish. Cover the dish with a plate or cling film and let it cool.
4. Once cool, refrigerate the fish overnight before serving.
Baked Plums and Brown Butter Demerara Cakes:
Crunchy and juicy collide in this delectable combination of baked plums and brown butter demerara cakes. This recipe is inspired by Anna Higham’s book, The Last Bite, and her eagerly anticipated bakery, Quince.
I’ve experimented with various versions of this recipe throughout the summer, incorporating rye flour, toasted hazelnuts, and a touch of lemon zest. Eventually, this became my go-to small cake recipe in the kitchen. I highly recommend following Anna’s suggestion to prepare the batter the day before, as it truly enhances the cake’s flavor. If you don’t have rye flour, plain white flour will suffice. This recipe yields 12 small cakes.
For the cakes:
– 125g butter
– 65g demerara sugar
– 65g soft brown sugar
– 50g finely ground hazelnuts
– 20g white rye flour
– 20g cornflour
– 4 egg whites
For the plums:
– 400g plums
– 75g caster sugar
– 100ml water
You’ll also need a tray of 12 small, non-stick patty tins.
Instructions:
1. In a small, deep saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat, monitoring it closely as it bubbles and darkens. Once the milk solids have turned a toasty golden brown at the bottom, and the butter emits a warm, nutty aroma, remove it from the heat. Transfer the brown butter to a small heatproof bowl and allow it to cool.
2. In a separate bowl, combine the demerara sugar, soft brown sugar, ground hazelnuts, rye flour, cornflour, and a generous pinch of salt (or two).
3. Using a balloon whisk, beat the egg whites until they reach a thick and frothy consistency, forming soft peaks.
4. Gently fold the whipped egg whites into the flour and sugar mixture until thoroughly combined, ensuring no streaks of egg white remain visible.
5. Make sure the brown butter has cooled but is still in a liquid state. Stir it into the batter until well-incorporated. Cover the batter and refrigerate it for at least six hours (overnight is also suitable).
6. Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Grease the patty tins with butter, then generously sprinkle demerara sugar over them, shaking off any excess. This sugar coating prevents sticking and adds a delightful crunchy texture to the cakes.
7. Divide the batter equally among the patty tins and bake for approximately 12 minutes, or until the cakes are soft, golden, and lightly risen.
8. Allow the cakes to cool for 10-15 minutes before using a palette knife to carefully release them from the tins. Transfer the cakes to a cooling rack.
9. For the plums, place the fruit (whole or halved with the stones removed) in a deep-sided frying pan. Sprinkle with caster sugar and pour in the water. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pan with a lid and let the plums cook for 7-10 minutes, or until they become soft and tender. You should have plenty of flavorful juices.
10. Serve the warm plums alongside the small cakes.
Remember, we only publish recipes featuring fish that is sustainable, as approved by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide. Don’t forget to follow Nigel on Instagram @NigelSlater for more delicious inspiration.
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