CNN — As the Fall-Winter 2023 fashion shows come to a close, it is evident that there was a striking absence of plus-size models on the runways of New York, London, Milan, and Paris. This lack of representation is particularly notable in light of the recent introduction of several weight loss medications in the US and UK, which have generated significant buzz. However, despite some progress in recent years, the fashion industry seems to be taking a step back in terms of inclusivity.
While there have been positive advancements, such as Fendi and Valentino featuring models outside of the traditional sample size, this season saw a decline in the number of curve bodies on the runways. Fendi, Valentino, and Erdem declined to comment on this issue. According to Tagwalk, a fashion search engine, the number of mid and plus-size models decreased by 24% compared to the previous season. Similarly, a report by Vogue Business found that 95.6% of all looks presented for Fall-Winter 2023 were in a size US 0-4, despite the fact that a majority of American women wear a size 14 or above.
This regression in body diversity on the runways has drawn criticism from fashion commentators and diversity advocates. IMG model agent Mina White, who represents plus-size models, expressed her frustration with designers not utilizing curve bodies as they had in the past. She pointed out the irony of brands like Ashley Graham attending fashion shows as guests, yet not being represented on the runways.
The problem lies partially in the fashion industry’s reliance on sample sizes. Sample sizes are one-off garments made for runway shows and are typically designed to fit a narrow range of body types. By prioritizing a specific body type, fashion houses can easily swap models if needed, saving time and money. However, this makes it challenging for curve models to be cast, as larger samples are not readily available. White emphasized that she introduces curve models to brands well in advance, providing their specific measurements, but still encounters resistance due to the perceived financial burden of making larger samples.
In addition to the lack of representation, the issue of sample sizes extends to plus-size consumers. It is disheartening for them to see brands invest resources in creating custom garments for celebrities while claiming there are no resources available for more inclusive runway samples. London-based stylist Francesca Burns shared her experience of being sent ill-fitting garments for a shoot, leaving the model feeling embarrassed and shamed. This incident highlights the need for change in the industry.
Although progress has been made in terms of inclusivity in campaigns and editorials, the lack of diverse clothing options remains a barrier. The fear is that without a wider range of clothes, the industry will revert to featuring plus-size models in limited narratives, such as lingerie or trench coat advertisements. British Vogue’s April issue celebrated Jill Kortleve, Paloma Elsesser, and Precious Lee as “The New Supers,” but many pointed out that the plus-size Saint Laurent dresses worn by these models are not widely available for purchase.
In order for true change to occur, there must be a genuine desire and commitment from the fashion industry to prioritize body diversity. While there have been positive strides, it is clear that there is still much work to be done. The lack of plus-size representation on the Fall-Winter 2023 runways serves as a reminder that the industry needs to continue pushing for more inclusivity and challenging traditional beauty standards.
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