How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style
When the Beatles’ manager, Brian Epstein, wanted to create a new image for the band in the 1960s, he turned to Cecil Gee, the go-to tailor of the day on Shaftesbury Avenue in London. Epstein brought all four members of the band into the shop for a fitting, expressing his desire for them to wear shaped shirts with collars up to the neck.
Cecil Gee, whose birth name was Sasha Goldstein, was a renowned menswear brand in Britain. He was one of the Jewish immigrants being celebrated in a new exhibition at the Museum of London Docklands. The exhibition aims to showcase the overlooked but significant contributions of Jewish people in Britain to the global fashion scene of the 1960s.
“There are so many rich, moving stories of Jews who came to Britain and established themselves in every part of the fashion industry,” says Dr Lucie Whitmore, the exhibition’s curator. The exhibition goes beyond the well-known involvement of Jewish people in tailoring in the East End of London, exploring how they played a role in establishing the ready-to-wear industry and dominating Carnaby Street, the hub of the Swinging Sixties.
The exhibition creates an immersive experience for visitors, with mock-ups of 1960s shop fronts and various spaces to explore. One space replicates an East End tailor’s workshop, complete with scattered objects and an open dinner coat on a workbench, showcasing the intricate details. Another space recreates a Carnaby Street boutique, featuring garments displayed on walls and suspended mannequins. The soundtrack includes music from artists dressed by Jewish makers, such as the Rolling Stones, the Yardbirds, Bowie, and The Mamas & the Papas.
While many of these Jewish makers worked anonymously, their skills were remarkable. The exhibition pays tribute to their craftsmanship, including the unnamed Jewish tailor from Hoxton who made one of the most exquisite suits ever seen, lacking any label. The exhibition features oral histories, mini biographies, ephemera, and photography, highlighting the contributions of these designers.
One of the designers celebrated is Otto Lucas, a German-born fashion designer who created hats for high society women and celebrities like Greta Garbo and Wallis Simpson. Despite his talent and success, Lucas has been somewhat forgotten over time. The exhibition showcases Lucas’ style of hat stands and highlights his influence in the world of millinery.
The exhibition also features personal accounts, like that of Brenda Elphee, who worked with Lucas in the late 1960s. Elphee describes her time at Lucas’ Bond Street workshop, where she worked alongside Jewish ladies and a French designer, shaping ribbons and adding labels and trimmings to hats. The exhibition serves as a trip down memory lane for Elphee and others who were part of this vibrant fashion era.
Fashion City: How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style will run at The Museum of London Docklands from October 13, 2023, to April 14, 2024.
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