Situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, nestled between Iceland, Scotland, and Norway, lies the captivating Faroe Islands. This 18-island archipelago is a self-governing nation within the Kingdom of Denmark and enchants visitors from the moment they step foot on the island of Vágar. The scenery is breathtaking, with emerald green slopes and basalt cliffs, enveloped in a serene silence. As you travel along the roads, it’s hard to stay focused with a gauzy mist swirling around the mountains, concealing deep gorges, wide fjords, quaint turf-roofed homes, and picturesque waterfalls.
With a sparse population of around 54,400 people, the Faroe Islands’s enchanting environment seems to inspire innovation rooted in its natural surroundings. And now, getting there has never been easier, as Atlantic Airways has recently introduced nonstop flights from the United States, departing from New York’s Stewart International Airport, only 60 miles from Manhattan.
One of the island’s remarkable features is its subsea tunnels, spanning a total of 14 miles and currently open to the public. The newest addition, stretching approximately seven miles, connects Tórshavn, the cosmopolitan capital of the Faroes, located on the island of Streymoy, to Eysturoy, the second-largest island. Notably, this subsea tunnel boasts being the world’s first with a roundabout. Its unique design includes an illuminated multicolored pillar encircled by a steel installation of people holding hands, crafted by the talented Faroese artist Tróndur Patursson. To enhance the driving experience through the tunnel, tune in to 97.0 FM and immerse yourself in the captivating soundscape created by musician Jens L. Thomsen, who sought to capture the tunnel’s essence in his composition. Another subsea tunnel, incorporating art, is set to open just in time for Christmas, providing faster access between Tórshavn and Sandoy, one of the southern isles.
Tórshavn, the mesmerizing coastal capital, is a center of creativity seamlessly blending contemporary elements with a deep-rooted connection to its past. The old quarter, adorned with centuries-old turf-roofed houses, occupies a peninsula that extends into the bustling harbor. Stroll through the city’s winding lanes, steep alleyways, and broad boulevards, and you’ll discover vibrant coffee shops, wine bars, and fashionable boutiques. Rather than using Tórshavn solely as a base for island hopping, take the time to delve deeper into the city’s culinary delights, fashion scene, and thriving art community.
For food enthusiasts, ROKS, meaning “silly” in Faroese, offers a whimsical dining experience. This laid-back establishment is the playful sister restaurant of the two-Michelin-starred KOKS, which has temporarily relocated to Greenland but will return to Streymoy in 2025. Housed in a two-story turf-roofed building dating back to at least the 1600s, ROKS features amusing artwork, including depictions of an octopus holding glasses of red wine. The head chef, Poul Andrias Ziska, crafts seasonal menus that highlight the abundant fish and shellfish found in the Faroe Islands. Indulge in one of their two tasting menus, priced at 595 and 895 Danish kroner (around $87 and $130), and don’t miss the raw razor clams served with a vinaigrette and shallot sauce, garnished with yellow dandelion and white sweet cicely blossoms.
Just across the cobblestone lane stands another centuries-old building, housing a unique restaurant experience. Raest, meaning “fermented” in Faroese, pays homage to the age-old Faroese tradition of preserving food through fermentation. Chef Sebastian Jiménez, originally from Atlixco, Mexico, infuses a Mexican twist into the traditional fermented cuisine showcased in their 14-course tasting menu (1,400 kroner). Each dish is a work of art, meticulously assembled. For example, Faroese flatbread is transformed into a tortilla topped with pan-fried langoustine, fermented carrots, and pipián rojo, a mole-like sauce inspired by Chef Jiménez’s mother’s own cooking.
Art aficionados and wine lovers alike will find delight at Vingardurin, meaning “wine garden.” Curated by Faroese art reviewer and critic Kinna Poulsen, this unpretentious wine bar and art gallery offers a serene setting for enjoying wines from mainland Europe, accompanied by Iberian ham and manchego cheese. Additionally, bimonthly exhibition openings provide opportunities to mingle with artists in the cozy, candlelit space or the spacious backyard terrace if the weather permits. Elsa Maria Holm Olsen, one of the co-owners, thoughtfully selects over 200 different wine bottles for the cellar and sources ingredients such as cockles, squid, and specialty charcuterie from Spain, France, and Italy. On Thursday to Saturday evenings, enjoy their five-course tasting menu (1,300 kroner, with wine pairing) in an intimate setting.
For those with a keen eye for fashion, two shops on Niels Finsens Gøta in Tórshavn defy expectations. Ullvoruhusid, or “wool wear house,” offers a selection of stylish long cardigans, sweaters, and vests, all with a minimalist silhouette that defies the stereotype of traditional fisherman or farmer attire. Sissal Kristiansen, one of the co-owners, created her Shisa Brand using mainly undyed Faroese wool, showcasing its natural shades of gray, brown, and white. Ms. Kristiansen, who has been knitting since childhood, designs flattering garments for women, some featuring side slits inspired by the layering effect observed in the landscape through the fog.
Gudrun & Gudrun, owned by Gudrun Ludvig and Gudrun Rógvadóttir, offers cocktail and ankle-length dresses characterized by spaghetti straps, plunging backs, and diaphanous textures. Delicate sweaters are created using an eclectic mix of materials, such as silk and alpaca sleeves, mohair paired with glittery threads, or a patchwork of colorful wools. For those seeking something truly unique, the shop also provides the option to customize a mohair bridal gown. Gudrun Ludvig draws inspiration from traditional Faroese patterns, incorporating them into her modern designs. Organic wool from around the world, including the Faroes, is sourced for their apparel. Most of their garments, priced at 2,025 to 4,725 kroner, are hand-knit in the Faroe Islands or by women’s empowerment groups established by the owners in Peru and Jordan.
Art enthusiasts will find themselves captivated by the Faroe Islands’ flourishing art scene. Visit Steinprent, a lithography workshop situated within a sprawling, late-19th-century cannery building along the harbor. This workshop, operating for over two decades, collaborates with Faroese and Nordic artists, utilizing a printing process dating back to 1798. Explore the sunlit second-floor space, where you can witness artists painting on unique beige-colored limestone and lithographers operating printing presses. Jan Andersson, the owner, and his son, Mikkjal, are more than happy to guide you through the process. With approximately 2,000 original lithographs available for purchase, ranging in price from 810 to 24,818 kroner, Steinprent is a must-visit destination. Additionally, the ground-floor gallery hosts exhibitions that showcase diverse artwork, predominantly from the Faroes and other Nordic countries.
Within the shipyard building, you’ll find the studio of Hansina Iversen. Despite the surrounding clutter of gears and machinery, her space radiates with sunlight, illuminating her boldly colored abstract oils and lithographs displayed on white walls. To visit, an appointment is required, but the opportunity to engage in conversation with the artist about her work and the inspiration she draws from the Faroes’ unpredictable weather makes it well worth it. You can also experience Hansina Iversen’s art at the National Gallery of the Faroe Islands, situated within the Plantation, a forested area crisscrossed by scenic trails. For a small fee of 90 kroner, adults can explore this black, multi-gabled building with a turf roof. Inside, sunlight floods the modern interior, offering views of the surrounding woods and the outdoor display of Hans Pauli Olsen’s figurative bronze sculptures. The gallery’s permanent collection consists of over 200 works organized by genre, including landscape, the ocean, wool, and knitting. Notable pieces include Samuel Joensen-Mikines’ dark and evocative 20th-century seascapes and Súsan í Jákupsstovu’s unique wool rock sculptures embroidered with flowers and moss. Don’t miss the impressive giant spider-like installation by Ole Wich, representing the topography of Lítla Dímun, the smallest island in the Faroe Islands.
A short uphill walk from the National Gallery will lead you to a green knoll adorned with intriguing sculptures, such as a cluster of steel sheep created by Bernhard Lipsoe. Among these sculptures stands the Nordic House, an architectural marvel symbolizing unity through design.
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