Experience the exhilaration of Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB), the Super Bowl of trail running. This week-long event is a magnet for pro trail runners who get treated like A-list celebrities. The main attraction is the ultramarathon, a daunting 169km loop around Mont Blanc that spans three countries.
But it’s not just the distance that presents a challenge, it’s the staggering elevation gain of over 10,000m, which surpasses that of Mount Everest. Only a select group of ultrarunners can resist the ultimate physical test that UTMB offers.
To truly understand the magnitude of this race, I decided to participate rather than observe. However, as I gazed up at the towering peaks that surrounded Chamonix, I couldn’t help but feel a bit overwhelmed. What had I gotten myself into?
The route takes runners through France, Italy, Switzerland, and back to France again. British ultrarunner, Tom Evans, who came third in the 2022 edition, described UTMB as a one-of-a-kind experience. His favorite part of the race is summiting Grand Col Ferret, an incredible moment as the sun rises.
As the race drew nearer, my anxieties grew. But according to Topher Gaylord, an American former elite trail runner, UTMB is a transformative experience. In his book, The Race That Changed Running, he describes how UTMB exposes you to the full range of human emotions in a single day, leaving you forever changed.
Standing at the start line in Chamonix’s Place du Triangle de l’Amitié, I wondered how this race would change me. The sound of Vangelis’s “Conquest of Paradise” anthem snapped me back to reality, and the exuberant spectators cheered us on. And so, our epic journey began.
The first stretch of the race took us through Les Houches and Saint Gervais, where the crowds were electrifying. Their energy was contagious, and it fueled my determination to press on. With each ascent, the spectators became more fervent, with some even wielding chainsaws. The atmosphere was spine-tingling, and the adrenaline pumped through my veins.
The trail followed the Trail du Mont Blanc, a popular hiking route that thousands tackle each year. The massif of Mont Blanc remained a constant presence on our left, unmoved by our efforts to encircle it.
The darkness allowed for introspection, questioning my decision to run on a mountain instead of being safe in bed. But that’s precisely the essence of UTMB – pushing your mind, body, and spirit to their limits. Moving through the night under a sky ablaze with stars, the humbling and calming experience was indescribable.
By dawn, after reaching the highest point at the Col des Pyramides Calcaires, exhaustion began to set in. Arriving at Courmayeur, the bustling aid station at 80km, many runners chose to call it quits. It was hard to leave, knowing that more uphill climbs lay ahead. However, the majestic view of Grand Col Ferret in the distance, and the prospect of entering Switzerland, spurred me on.
This leg of the race offered a gentler landscape, with green fields, cowbells gently chiming, and pine-scented forests providing respite from the scorching sun. Despite fatigue, I pressed on, passing fellow runners slumped on the trail. We all endured, marching towards the next summit, guided by our determination.
As dusk fell for the second time, I found myself climbing La Flégère, the final peak. Exhausted, yet resolute, I carefully navigated the rocks and roots, fighting the zombie-like fatigue. Seeing the finish line within reach filled me with relief and a profound sense of accomplishment. After 34 and a half hours, I didn’t have to run anymore. I had conquered the seemingly impossible.
Collapsing in a chair, surrounded by others experiencing their own victory, I marveled at the fact that we had pushed ourselves to the limits of physical and mental exhaustion and emerged victorious. In the words of naturalist John Muir, “The world’s big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.” And during UTMB, I had a more than good look, even in the darkest hours. Every agonizing step was worth it.
For more information about UTMB, visit utmb.world.
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