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After a long hiatus of almost 10 years, I am returning to cooking in London. Although only part-time, I will be working at a trendy club on the outskirts of Notting Hill, which used to be my old stomping ground before I moved to West Somerset. The atmosphere may be different, but I am confident that my food will impress. I will be serving a mix of classic favorites and new dishes, with a focus on family-style dining and sharing. The overall vibe will be laid back and informal.
It’s always hard to predict which old recipes will still be popular. Some may seem outdated in today’s culinary landscape. Personally, I no longer cook foie gras with sweetcorn pancakes because it doesn’t sit well with me, both physically and ethically. And my chicken and goat’s cheese mousse with olives, which is overly complicated to prepare, failed miserably when I tried it in Hong Kong a few years ago.
However, my poulet Antiboise, featured on the next page, was met with overwhelming enthusiasm by the resident tasting panel. Although I can’t recall ever putting it on a restaurant menu, this dish has been a staple of mine for many years, as photographer Andy Sewell can confirm since we featured it in these pages over a decade ago.
But most of the food I’ll be serving will be new and exciting. I recently boasted that my wife has never had the same dish twice (I cook dinner every night when I’m home), and while that may be a slight exaggeration, it’s true that my creative juices are still flowing. Only time will tell if my new creations will hit the mark.
Bavette, Sauce Gribiche, and Cep Toast
Serves 4
Bavette, one of the two cuts commonly referred to as skirt steak, can be tough and chewy if not prepared properly. However, when sliced thin and against the grain, it becomes flavorful and enjoyable.
For the sauce gribiche:
(Insert recipe for sauce gribiche here)
For the cep toast:
(Insert recipe for cep toast here)
Make sure the bavette is thoroughly cleaned of any sinew or membrane. Wrap it in film and place it in the freezer for about 30 minutes to firm up. To prepare the sauce gribiche, whisk together the egg yolk, mustard, vinegar, salt, and black pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil, then add the remaining ingredients and stir well. Let the sauce sit for as long as desired.
For the cep toast, carefully wash the ceps in cold water, removing any dirt or imperfections. Dry them on kitchen paper, then thinly slice. Heat a frying pan with olive oil and sauté the ceps over high heat with salt and chili. Once wilted, remove from heat and let them rest. Toast the bread, lightly butter it, and top with the sautéed ceps. Flash the toasts under the grill before serving.
Identify the direction of the meat’s grain (visible in long strands) and slice it as thinly as possible against the grain. Place the meat between film or greaseproof paper and pound it out until very thin. Arrange the meat on four cold plates, sprinkle with sea salt flakes, and drizzle the sauce gribiche sparingly over and around the meat. Serve immediately with the cep toasts on the side.
Poulet Antiboise
Serves 4
(Insert recipe for Poulet Antiboise here)
This dish is simple to prepare and can be made ahead of time. The key to its success is using high-quality chicken. Peel and slice the onions, then place them in a deep casserole with olive oil, salt, and cayenne pepper. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then place it on top of the onions. Cover the casserole and cook gently in the oven at 170°C for about 1.5 hours. The onions should melt and become almost like a puree, similar to pissaladière. Add more oil during cooking if needed. Once the chicken is tender, remove it from the onion mixture and carve it into pieces. Return the chicken to the onions and mix well. Scatter the olives (pitted or not) and serve.
Raw Sea Bass, Oyster Emulsion, and Anchovy Bits
Serves 4
(Insert recipe for Raw Sea Bass, Oyster Emulsion, and Anchovy Bits here)
The anchovy population of the Mediterranean and Cantabrian seas will tremble at the thought of my return. The “bits” in this dish are inspired by the fried batter scraps that used to be sold in chip shops and are too good not to be included. Shuck the oysters (or ask your fishmonger to do it for you) and place them in a small pan along with their juices. Simmer briefly until the oysters firm up, then transfer them to a blender. Add the cream and lemon juice and blend until smooth. Slowly add the oil while blending. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, season with black pepper, and taste for seasoning. Heat a deep pan of frying oil and chop the anchovy fillets into small pieces. Make a smooth batter by whisking water into flour, then add the anchovy pieces. Once the oil is hot, coat the battered anchovy bits and fry until golden brown. Place the sea bass slices on cold plates in a diagonal arrangement. Drizzle the oyster emulsion around the fish and sprinkle with anchovy bits and oyster leaves.
Grilled Pineapple with Chilli Syrup and Coconut Ice Cream
Serves 4
(Insert recipe for Grilled Pineapple with Chilli Syrup and Coconut Ice Cream here)
This classic dish can be prepared in advance. Serve the pineapple warm but not hot. For the pineapple, combine spices, sugar, and water in a saucepan. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then let it cool. Using a serrated knife, cut the pineapple across the base and below the stalk. Cut down the center of the pineapple, dividing it into two halves. Cut each half lengthwise into four equal segments. Place each segment skin-side down on a cutting board and carefully separate the flesh from the skin. Remove the central stalk and slice each segment into four long slices. Heat a ridged griddle pan and grill the pineapple slices, turning them to create a criss-cross pattern. Place the grilled pineapple on a serving dish and generously brush with the chili syrup. For the coconut ice cream, combine milk and coconut milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar, then slowly pour the hot milk into the mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and heat gently while stirring until slightly thickened. Pour the custard into a bowl and let it cool completely. Whip the cream until soft peaks form, then fold in the coconut custard. Churn the mixture in an ice cream machine until it reaches the desired consistency. Freeze for an additional 30 minutes before serving.
Chez Rowley is opening at Laylow, 10 Golborne Road, London W10 5PE, on September 13. Be sure to follow @FTMag to stay up to date with our latest stories.
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