The air of an evening in Paris was filled with the harmonious clinking of wine glasses as patrons indulged in chilled rosé and cheese plates outside the cafes, restaurants, and artisanal stores surrounding Place d’Aligre in the Bastille district. Waiters expertly navigated through the crowd, balancing trays adorned with Aperol spritzes and oysters, while eager visitors arrived to meet friends. Children played games and occasionally visited their parents for a crispy French fry. Tourists snapped drinks and posed for envy-inducing Instagram photos that would surely captivate their followers back home.
Hundreds of chairs had been meticulously placed earlier in the day to accommodate the diners, but time was of the essence as, due to post-pandemic regulations, the entire setup would need to be dismantled by 10 p.m. in order to balance the needs of those enjoying the lively scene and those who found it bothersome.
Paris has long been celebrated for its bustling cafe culture, with approximately 13,000 open-air terraces adorning sidewalks and squares before the pandemic. However, during the Covid lockdowns, thousands of additional outdoor spaces sprung up as part of an emergency program designed to support businesses. These additional terraces have now become a permanent fixture since Mayor Anne Hidalgo decreed in 2021 that they can return each year from April through November.
Consequently, parts of Paris that were once vacant or even considered unsafe have transformed into vibrant destinations, experiencing a mini economic boom. Place d’Aligre is one such area that was mostly dormant during the evenings prior to 2020, but has now undergone a remarkable shift.
Laurent Zennadi, a manager at Chez Camille, a family-run cafe that used to primarily serve a morning and lunchtime clientele from the nearby Marche d’Aligre, a food market dating back to 1779, stated, “The scene has completely changed. No one used to come here in the evenings. Now people are coming from all over Paris.” Salvatore Cantarella, the owner of Salvo Olio e Vino en Vrac, an Italian deli renowned for its truffled hams and wine dispensed from barrels, expressed gratitude for the influx of new customers to Place d’Aligre since receiving a license to open a summer terrace. This additional business prevented him from going under, and he remarked, “I’m so thankful for the positive outcome.”
Most of Paris’s new summer terraces occupy parking spaces, with nearly 4,000 of them transformed into temporary wooden decks. The banks of the Seine River are also adorned with pop-up tables, as are rooftops boasting panoramic views. With fewer parking spots available and the permanent implementation of cycling lanes following the Covid-era, thousands of people are now flocking to the city’s trendiest spots on bicycles.
Claire-Anne Haines, an event organizer, described her experience while hemmed behind a tiny table alongside her friends at a bistro’s parking-space terrace in Montmartre, “It’s so lovely here. When I was biking past, the terrace caught my eye, so I told my friends to come.”
This endeavor aligns with Mayor Hidalgo’s ambitious plan to transform Paris into an environmentally friendly metropolis by repurposing public spaces for pedestrians and communal activities, liberating them from car domination. However, not everyone is welcoming these changes. Some resident associations have clashed with the city over the noise generated by the terraces and are pressing authorities to determine who should control the streets and sidewalks. Critics believe that Mayor Hidalgo is enabling businesses to privatize public areas, while drivers express their grievances about the loss of parking spaces. The hashtag #saccageparis, which translates to “pillaging Paris,” has become an outlet for disgruntled individuals to share pictures of terraces they feel spoil the city’s elegance.
Eric Durand, a spokesperson for Droit au Sommeil (Right to Sleep), a citizens group with representatives in every Parisian district, voiced their discontent, stating, “The situation is hellish.” He noted that the noise has escalated dramatically in his neighborhood near Rue des Abbesses in Montmartre, causing some residents to relocate and others to resort to closing their windows or even installing air conditioning units, which is regarded as a horror in Paris, to escape the summer night’s commotion generated by the terraces. Mr. Durand added, “We want this invasion of public space to cease.”
However, City Hall officials affirm that the summer terraces are here to stay. Deputy Mayor Olivia Polski, who is responsible for trade, expressed, “Paris is the city of cafes; they are a part of the French art de vivre.” Currently, 4,000 summer terraces have acquired paid licenses, in comparison to the 14,000 that were permitted to open under emergency Covid policies. These terraces must adhere to newly implemented guidelines relating to aesthetics and noise level. They must also close by 10 p.m., and loud music is strictly prohibited. Owners who defy these regulations face severe penalties, including hefty fines and potential loss of their operating license. Last year, over 200 terraces were shut down due to violations.
In Place de la Réunion, a picturesque square in eastern Paris adorned with umbrella pines and an ornate fountain, cafe operators have taken the initiative to address concerns raised by local residents. Perrine Virey, a manager at Café La Chope, whose summer terrace can seat up to 130 people compared to the regular terrace’s capacity of 40 before Covid, explained that solutions were found through dialogue with neighbors. These solutions included refraining from discarding bottles at night and gradually moving diners out of the square after 9:45 p.m.
The locals have noticed a safer and more convivial atmosphere with hundreds of people gathering each night. One recent evening in the square felt like a small village, with children playing and parents enjoying leisurely conversations at the tables. Friends savored colorful orange spritzes before heading to an LGBTQ dance club.
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