Manual-wind movements are gaining popularity due to their smaller size, which aligns with the current trend for smaller watches. While the 40-millimeter size is often referred to as the “Goldilocks” size, being just right in terms of neither being too big nor too small, there has been a surge in models measuring below 30 millimeters.
For instance, Patek Philippe showcased special-edition manual-wound gold Calatrava watches at their Watch Art exhibition in Tokyo. These watches were sized at 31 millimeters and 36 millimeters, perfectly catering to those who prefer smaller timepieces.
Bulgari, on the other hand, has introduced the manual-wind BVL 100 Piccolissimo movement, which is one of the smallest and thinnest movements available. With a diameter of 12.3 millimeters and a thickness of 2.5 millimeters, this movement weighs a mere 1.3 grams.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the executive director of production creation at Bulgari, explained that the decision to develop a manual-wind movement was driven by the desire to provide long-lasting functionality for high-jewelry watches. Many clients had expressed disappointment in the short lifespan of tiny batteries, and thus, the mechanical movement was introduced as a permanent solution.
Initially featured in Bulgari’s Serpenti Misteriosi watches, the Piccolissimo movement has now become a part of the new Mediterranea high-jewelry collection. Notable among these exquisite pieces is the Giardino Marino Grande, a watch bracelet showcasing an underwater seascape design adorned with over 4,000 gems. This breathtaking bracelet also houses a Piccolissimo-powered watch, which can be revealed by flipping up a central fish motif.
Manual-wind movements also contribute to a watch’s vintage aesthetic. At the Watches and Wonders Geneva trade fair, Panerai unveiled the Radiomir California PAM01349, featuring a distinctive California dial. This dial combines Roman numerals, Arabic numbers, and dashes, with an inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position.
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