To truly grasp the significance of the aperitivo in Milan, one only needs to stand in the bustling center of the city, facing the magnificent cathedral in the Piazza del Duomo. On the right, a massive Martini vermouth logo illuminates a modest skyscraper in Piazza Armando Diaz, signaling the presence of Terrazza Martini, a rooftop bar serving a variety of Martini vermouth-based cocktails. To the left, just steps away from the cathedral, sits Camparino in Galleria, a century-old establishment and the home bar of Campari, the beloved bitter liqueur of Milan. Inside, patrons can enjoy an array of Campari-based drinks. Adjacent to Camparino, on the second floor, lies Terrazza Aperol, dedicated to the popular Aperol liqueur, which boasts an orange color scheme. Here, visitors can order creative twists on classic cocktails like the Aperol 75 or the Aperol Mary.
The aperitivo hour, which typically lasts from late afternoon to early evening, is an integral part of Milanese life, akin to fashion and “The Last Supper.” This light and refreshing pre-dinner ritual centers around a stimulating libation, often low in alcohol and vibrant in color. There are various options to choose from, all within the same neighborhood. The spritz, a combination of bittersweet liqueur, wine, and soda water, the Americano made with Campari, sweet vermouth, and soda water, the Milano Torinos consisting of Campari and sweet vermouth, and the Campari Shakerato featuring shaken Campari. However, not all aperitivo-hour drinks are lightweights. The trendy Negroni, composed solely of gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari, along with its even trendier cousin, the Negroni Sbagliato, made with sweet vermouth, Campari, and Prosecco, are immensely popular choices.
These drinks are usually accompanied by bite-sized snacks such as olives, potato chips, charcuterie, nuts, or crostini. The idea is to savor everything in small, flavorful bites while sipping and engaging in conversation. This ritual is widely practiced throughout Milan at numerous establishments each day.
“For Milanese people, and Italians in general, the aperitivo is a true ritual,” said Guglielmo Miriello, director of the Mandarin Garden, the bar inside the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Milan. He also noted a shift towards classic cocktails like the Negroni and other bittersweet concoctions, following a phase dominated by mojitos, Moscow mules, and gin and tonics.
The drinking scene in Milan currently strikes a balance between traditional and contemporary. Milanese-style drinking, characterized by lighter, more bitter flavors, has gained global recognition and influenced the modern craft cocktail movement. Additionally, there is a growing demand for lower alcohol beverages, with non-alcoholic cocktails becoming increasingly popular in Milan. The Negroni Sbagliato has experienced a surge in popularity, particularly after it was endorsed by “House of Dragons” star Emma D’Arcy in a viral video.
Maurizio Stocchetto, owner of Bar Basso, the birthplace of the Negroni Sbagliato, has observed a rise in demand for gin, Campari, Aperol Spritz, and the Negroni Sbagliato itself. Bar Basso, along with Camparino, stands as one of the most iconic aperitivo destinations in the city. Bar Basso is known for its generously sized cocktails, including the Negroni Sbagliato served in a goblet and the towering Negroni in a foot-tall plastic wine glass.
Despite their dedication to the classics, bar owners in Milan are also exploring new beverage options for the aperitivo hour. Guglielmo Miriello offers a unique drink called the Italian Beauty at the Mandarin Garden, featuring St. Germain, Aperol, lemon juice, and Champagne. Domenico Carella, owner of the cocktail bar Cà-Ri-Co, mentions the popular drinks in Milan like Milano Torino and Aperol Spritz but chose to dedicate a smaller bar within Cà-Ri-Co exclusively to martinis.
At the Martini Room, guests can reserve a spot at the horseshoe-shaped bar for 30, 60, or 90-minute intervals. The admission fee includes access to a “martini free flow” and accompanying bites. Though some may consider martinis to be more suitable for the aperitivo style, Carella believes that bitter or vermouth-based beverages with lower alcohol content are the preferred choice of Italians. Nevertheless, the Martini Room attracted numerous customers in 2022, with 5,000 martinis sold.
Another bar in Milan, drinc. Cocktail & Conversation, takes the martini seriously. Located near Bar Basso, drinc. features a glowing green neon sign displaying the Tanqueray gin logo. When ordering a martini, a bar cart might be wheeled to your location for tableside preparation.
Luca Marcellin, owner of drinc., believes that the martini is indeed part of the aperitivo culture, particularly in his establishment. Milan has always had a fondness for dry martinis, which have been a popular choice at Bar Basso for years.
Recently, a group of young mixologists known as the Farmily Group decided to enter the aperitivo scene by creating their own red bitters. Comprised of five men, four of whom are bartenders, the Farmily Group owns and operates seven bars in Milan. During the pandemic, with their bars temporarily closed, they developed Bitter Fusetti, named after the street where their bar Iter is located. Their goal was to offer a new alternative to traditional Italian bitters. As a result, Negronis at their bars are made with Bitter Fusetti instead of Campari. They also aim to expand the use of Italian bitters by incorporating fresh ingredients like citrus into their creations, exemplified by the Fusettone, a simple highball made with Bitter Fusetti and pink grapefruit soda. The Farmily Group has even released limited-edition bottlings, including an Americano with a bourbon base, making it a fitting choice for a whiskey-based Negroni variation called the Boulevardier.
The Farmily Group stands as a leading force in Milan’s evolving cocktail landscape, offering a diverse range of bar experiences. Aside from Iter, their bistro that draws inspiration from spirit destinations around the world, they have a speakeasy called 1930 that requires a personal invitation, and BackDoor43, which claims to be the smallest cocktail bar in the world, measuring only 43 square feet. If you’re not one of the fortunate four to secure a seat at BackDoor43, they also offer a takeout window with a limited drinks menu.
While Milan’s iconic establishments like Bar Basso and Camparino continue to thrive, the city’s bar scene is evolving with the emergence of new voices like the Farmily Group and their innovative approach to aperitivo culture. However, the essence of Milan’s aperitivo tradition, characterized by vibrant drinks, delectable snacks, and convivial conversations, remains a cherished ritual in this vibrant city.
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