A.O.C. Believes the United States Should Have Superior Sunscreen

After months of persuasion, I have finally succeeded in helping my husband develop a daily sunscreen routine. Whenever I notice traces of white cream in his dark beard, a sign that he’s halfway there, I can’t help but feel a sense of accomplishment.

In an effort to avoid the common issues of white cast, heaviness, and greasiness found in many American sunscreens, some Americans, including Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York, have taken matters into their own hands by opting for sunscreens manufactured abroad. In a recent interview, Ocasio-Cortez revealed that she switches between Bioré in the summer and Beauty of Joseon in the winter, two Asian brands that use active ingredients not yet approved for use in the United States.

Ms. Ocasio-Cortez praised the sophisticated technology employed by these brands, noting that they feel more like moisturizers rather than layers of sunscreen. While major skincare hubs like South Korea, Japan, and the European Union regulate sunscreen as a cosmetic, the United States categorizes it as an over-the-counter drug under the oversight of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA must approve any sunscreen product marketed to American consumers due to its claims of preventing sunburn, reducing skin cancer risk, and combating early skin aging.

What’s unsettling is that the FDA hasn’t approved new active sunscreen ingredients in over two decades, and it seems that the rest of the world has surpassed the United States in developing new formulas and protocols. Skincare influencers on platforms like TikTok and Instagram are constantly raving about innovative products that are not available in American stores. While the FDA has approved 14 sunscreen filters, the European Union has approved over 30.

Many frustrated Americans concerned about skincare have blamed the FDA for the delayed approval of new ingredients. However, Ocasio-Cortez argues that the agency isn’t solely responsible for the hold-up. She believes that there are alternative avenues that can be explored to break this standstill. The Congress has initiated a preliminary process to evaluate a better approval procedure, one that encourages sunscreen filter manufacturers to conduct necessary research and development and submit relevant information to the FDA for approval. Ocasio-Cortez stresses the importance of maintaining safety standards while finding a way to speed up the approval process, rather than advocating for deregulation.

Numerous sunscreen ingredients, widely used in foreign-made products for years due to their user-friendly nature, are still waiting for FDA approval. Compounds like amiloxate, enzacamene, and octyl triazone have been stuck in the FDA regulatory pipeline since at least 2003. In 2014, the Sunscreen Innovation Act was signed into law by President Barack Obama, giving the FDA five years to approve or deny new sunscreen ingredients, including those under review since 2002. In 2019, the FDA reaffirmed the safety of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in mineral sunscreens but requested further information on 12 other ingredients.

According to Thomas F. Myers, the executive vice president for legal and regulatory affairs at the Personal Care Products Council, the FDA allowed the continued marketing and use of products containing these ingredients while requesting more data before making final decisions. This means that as long as the FDA withholds a final decision, products containing these ingredients can still be sold.

In 2020, the CARES Act introduced a change in the approval process for over-the-counter drugs. The FDA began asking manufacturers for additional information on new sunscreen filters, effectively handing the responsibility back to them without outright denying approval. The 14 chemicals that were moved up from 2019 to 2020 to comply with the CARES Act are the currently approved chemicals.

The FDA released a statement expressing its commitment to facilitate the marketing of sunscreen products with additional over-the-counter active ingredients, stating that they rely on the industry to provide data required for safety and effectiveness determinations.

However, it’s important to note that the current rates of skin cancer in the United States cannot be solely attributed to the lack of new sunscreen filters. Dr. Steven Q. Wang, chairman of the Skin Cancer Foundation’s photobiology committee, attributes the current skin cancer rates to factors over the past 50 years. This includes a lack of awareness of sun damage in the 1950s, as well as the popularity of sun tanning and tanning beds in the 1980s and 90s.

Dr. Wang emphasizes that sunscreen is only part of overall sun protection. Other measures, including avoiding direct sunlight during peak hours, seeking shade, and wearing protective clothing, play crucial roles in preventing skin cancer. He commends U.S. sunscreen manufacturers for their ability to create superior sunscreens using existing UV filters to protect Americans.

Despite many potential solutions, the responsibility for ensuring maximum sun protection for Americans lies with Congress, according to Ocasio-Cortez. She points out that there hasn’t been much attention given to the issue since Obama signed the Sunscreen Innovation Act in 2014. However, Ocasio-Cortez is optimistic about the growing awareness among everyday people and believes it’s essential to harness that momentum for change. On her various platforms, she aims to foster political engagement and create the necessary push for improvements in the availability of sunscreens in the U.S.

Influencers online have also been vocal about sunscreen issues, creating their own guidelines for usage and sharing their experiences with different brands. New and targeted brands, like Black Girl Sunscreen, have emerged to cater to diverse needs. Americans are becoming more adventurous in their choice of sunscreens and demanding better options.

Ocasio-Cortez concludes that this issue is not a matter of political affiliation but rather a universal need. We all require access to effective sun protection to safeguard our skin from the harmful effects of the sun.

Reference

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