Mersea Island, located in Essex, is a unique estuary island whose fate is tied to the rise and fall of the tides. Its connection to the mainland via an ancient causeway makes it necessary to check the tide times before visiting. The island’s main claim to fame is its oysters, which have been cultivated since Roman times. However, the tides can also be dangerous for those who make the mistake of driving across the Strood at high tide.
My family has a long-standing tradition of visiting Mersea Island during the summer. Whether it’s enjoying vinegar-soaked cockles on a bench overlooking the estuary or embarking on a September adventure in search of the first Colchester native oysters, we always find ourselves drawn back to the island. It’s not just the seafood that keeps us coming back, but also the feeling that something shifts when we cross onto the island.
West Mersea serves as the main hub of the island’s tourism activity. Despite its popularity, the attractions here remain delightfully low-key. Activities such as crabbing off the jetty, watching sailing boats in the marina, and exploring the quaint fisherman’s cottages known as “the Old City” allow visitors to experience a slower pace of life.
On West Mersea’s shingle beach, a row of colorful beach huts adds a vibrant touch to the serene landscape of blues and browns. Some of these huts have been retrofitted with vintage decor and can be rented for a day of relaxation by the sea through the Little Beach Hut Company.
During summer weekends, the West Mersea waterfront can get crowded, but there are plenty of ways to escape the masses. One of our favorite spots for beachcombing is Cudmore Grove country park, located on the eastern tip of the island. Here, coastal erosion has uncovered fossils and even hippopotamus bones. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of a red squirrel.
East Mersea is home to the Mersea Island Vineyard, where visitors can pick up a bottle of white wine or oyster stout. Seafood at Dawn, a humble restaurant on a country road, serves up delicious fresh seafood platters.
As the sun sets, visitors begin to make their way back to the mainland. However, for those who have been captivated by the island’s charm, a stay at the recently renovated White Hart inn is highly recommended. Run by the same team behind the Sun Inn in Dedham, this inn offers six stylish guest rooms and a menu ranging from adventurous dishes like bone marrow custard tart to classic steamed mussels. Of course, oysters are always available.
Cliftonville and Margate, located in Kent, are known for their stunning sunsets that live up to the “loveliest skies in Europe” cliché, famously attributed to Turner. Cliftonville was a significant shopping area during my childhood, and even though we moved away, our summer visits continued. Exploring the chalk cliffs and swimming in the bays were cherished activities. The low tide atmosphere of the harbour arm, with its boats stranded on hard sand and the scent of seaweed in the air, remains etched in my memories.
In the mid-2000s, anticipation was high for the opening of the Turner Contemporary gallery. The burning of Antony Gormley’s Waste Man sculpture in 2006 marked a turning point when cafes and pubs were bustling with excitement. Finally, in 2011, the gallery opened, and the view from its windows overlooking the sea left me awestruck. Since then, the Old Town has undergone a transformation, and Northdown Road has seen a revival with new businesses occupying once derelict units.
As of 2023, Margate is thriving, with new art galleries like Carl Freedman attracting visitors and classic restaurants such as Sargasso, Dory’s, and Bottega Caruso serving delicious meals. However, it’s Cliftonville’s revival as Margate’s fashionable district from a century ago that continues to gain momentum. Local favorites such as Good Egg, Daisy (a taco joint), and wine bars like Sète and The Streets have added to its charm. Additionally, a growing LGBTQ+ community is celebrated in venues like the Margate Arts Club and Camp Margate.
The only drawback to the resort is the lack of affordable accommodation options. While some hotels are quite expensive, including during the popular Margate Pride, there are new options like the No 42 Guesthouse and George & Heart House that offer more reasonable prices. The latter is an 18th-century building beautifully restored with six artist-designed bedrooms that pay homage to Margate’s vibrant history while maintaining a contemporary feel.
The North Norfolk coast is a place I’ve grown to love since moving to Essex. The train ride to Norfolk has become a frequent journey for me, as I find solace in its wild marshes and ever-changing skies. During my most recent visit, I embarked on a two-day walk along the Cromer railway station to Wells-next-the-Sea coast path. The Coasthopper bus runs parallel to the 22-mile route, offering scenic views of poppy fields and the sea. The path itself takes you over flower-filled headlands and along shingle beaches, with yellow horned-poppies and wetlands frequented by wading birds. Eventually, you reach Cley windmill, with its brick tower and white sails, visible across the reedbeds.
The following morning, I awoke to mist rising from the warm sands and a decaying wooden boat blending into silvery purslane. As I approached Wells, passing winding creeks and lobster pots lining the quayside, the afternoon sun was scorching. The beach, with its cheerful huts on stilts, lay another mile away, exposed on a shadeless bank. Fortunately, a new electric bus shuttles visitors back and forth, offering air-conditioned seats that provide a welcome respite from the heat. As I swam in the ocean, two seals flopped onto the sand, adding to the magic of the moment. I continued my walk through dunes and pinewoods until I reached Holkham’s Lookout cafe, where I indulged in wrapper-free real-fruit lollies while watching nesting swallows circle through the slatted wooden walls.
For accommodation, the colorful Globe Inn overlooking a park lined with chestnut trees in Wells provides a convenient option. Alternatively, Deepdale Camping, located farther west along the coast path, offers a camping experience closer to nature. The area is also home to several fantastic pubs, including the Dun Cow in Salthouse.
Previous trips to the area included enjoying chips on the pier and indulging in whole-crab sandwiches from Cafe Main in Cromer, climbing the viewing towers in Sheringham Park to take in the breathtaking views of rhododendrons, and taking boat trips from Morston to see seals. Peaceful churches also offer a place for quiet reflection.
Barafundle Bay in Pembrokeshire provided a truly magical experience. As we crossed the grassy headland and took in the view of the bay, it was just before dawn on Midsummer Day. With each passing moment, the scenery became increasingly enchanting, enhanced by the soft pink light on the horizon and the mesmerizing murmuration of starlings at dusk.
Barafundle Bay is a popular beach, particularly on sunny summer days. However, during my visit, we were fortunate to have the entire bay to ourselves. The half-mile walk to reach the beach may deter some visitors, but the effort is well worth it.
Swimming in the clear waters, feeling the soft sand beneath my feet, and basking in the tranquility of the surroundings made for an unforgettable experience. The beach huts, though cheerful, were unoccupied, contributing to the sense of serenity.
Midsummer Day is undoubtedly the perfect time to visit Barafundle Bay. The sunsets are particularly breathtaking, painting the sky with vibrant colors that perfectly complement the tranquil atmosphere. As the day turned to night, the secluded bay was transformed into a spectacle of natural beauty.
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