In 1998, renowned chef Dana “Loca” Rodriguez migrated from Chihuahua, Mexico to Denver. Growing up on a farm without running water or electricity, Rodriguez and her family cooked food that was sourced right from their farm. Over the past 25 years, Rodriguez has made a name for herself as she led Latin restaurants such as Work & Class, Super Mega Bien, and Cantina Loca. She also co-founded Doña Loca Mezcal and Tequila and recently became the culinary partner and executive chef at Casa Bonita, owned by Trey Parker and Matt Stone, creators of South Park. Rodriguez earned the nickname “Loca” due to her strong work ethic. In this edition of Voices In Food, Rodriguez sat down with Garin Pirnia to discuss mentorship, the misconception that Latin food should be cheap, and how anyone can create delicious Latin cuisine.
On the Misconception About Mexican Food:
It’s challenging because people have this idea that Mexican food should be inexpensive. They wonder why they can’t find $2 tacos anymore. Well, let me tell you, I have a lady who tirelessly hand-makes tortillas every day from 6 in the morning until 4 p.m. That’s all she does. She makes three thousand tortillas every day, one by one, and I have to pay her well so she can have a good life. So, that tortilla won’t cost you 20 cents, like the ones you buy in a bag at the store. We strive to use high-quality ingredients, and that’s something people don’t realize until they actually see and understand the cost and effort involved. For example, when they go to the store and buy beef cheeks for barbacoa, they’re like, “Wow, this is expensive.” People don’t really grasp these things until they truly see and comprehend that authentic and delicious Latin food requires more money and time.
“I see different people who try to recreate the food I grew up with, and it’s quite impressive. At the end of the day, I love it when others try to make the food I love because sometimes they make it even better.”
– Dana Rodriguez
On Cooking Other Cultures’ Foods:
My culinary journey began at an Italian restaurant called Panzano. I fell in love with Italian cuisine. Here I am, a passionate Mexican chef, cooking French and Italian dishes because that’s where I started my career with Jen Jasinski.
I’m amazed when I see others trying to recreate the food I grew up with. We all have different palates, but through dining experiences, we come to understand and appreciate other cultures, allowing us to create our own unique style of cooking. It doesn’t matter if it’s Mexican or Latin; we all use similar ingredients, just with different names based on our backgrounds. Ultimately, I am thrilled when other people attempt to make the food I adore because sometimes, they make it even better.
On Work Ethic:
I strive to do everything to the best of my abilities. If I don’t know how to do something, I find a way to learn. I read, ask questions, and engage with others. I even work in different places to broaden my knowledge. One of my business partners once said to me, “You will never stop. You will never say no.” And I replied, “Why should I?” Every opportunity is a chance to learn. Even if it doesn’t result in success, there’s always something to gain from it. That’s why people say, “You’re crazy. You have no limits. You’re fearless.” When people ask me if I’m afraid when I walk into Casa Bonita, I tell them, “Absolutely.” I don’t have all the answers, but I know what I’m committed to, and I make things happen. Sometimes, when I reflect on my life, it feels like a slow-motion movie. I can see where I started and where I’m going, and everything that happened in between feels like a dream. Growing up on a farm, I learned the essential aspects of life, like water and grains. We took care of our chickens so that we could have food. We cultivated corn to make our own tortillas. These are things you don’t think about when you’re born into that kind of lifestyle. It’s only when you move away and look back that you appreciate the convenience of buying a bag of tortillas for $2 instead of going through the laborious process of growing, drying, cooking, mixing, and grinding corn just to enjoy one tortilla.
It’s your work ethic and the values you hold dear that determine whether you do things right. And if you don’t know how to do something right, then don’t bother with it. We are dedicated to our craft, whether it’s cooking or washing dishes.
On Mentoring:
One of my favorite things to do is to hire people and observe them as they work. As a mentor or mother figure, I instantly recognize someone’s talent and think, “Oh, this person is really good at this. I need to train them in this area.” That’s one of the things I enjoy the most: acting as a mentor to others. It’s a unique approach because nowadays, most people want to hire individuals with extensive experience. For me, it’s the opposite. I want to teach others because it allows me to learn more. I embrace the chaos.
I always tell everyone to work hard and have a goal in life. There will be ups and downs along the way, but if you stay focused, you will eventually reach your destination.
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