I must admit, opting for a “dry June” or a “dry July” feels rather unconventional compared to the popular “dry January.” During a recent visit to Paris, a friend from London humorously pointed out that she didn’t expect to have a summer beach body by August, but rather a summer belly due to indulging in too many refreshing beers at barbecues.
In Paris, it’s effortless to find yourself hopping from one terrace to another, enjoying the long summer evenings. Whether it’s an apéro here or a glass of wine there, the city has a knack for indulging in libations. While it’s not a place known for excessive drinking, it does have a flourishing craft beer industry that competes with wine, and trendy wine bars that offer vibrant natural wines sourced from across the continent.
However, when another friend invited me to join her on a month-long alcohol detox before her bachelorette party and wedding, I agreed. And during this time, I rediscovered something simple, yet extraordinary: the citron pressé.
Even if it’s not listed on the menu, any respectable brasserie will be able to serve you a citron pressé. Essentially, it’s a deconstructed lemonade, but it’s so much more than that. The freshly squeezed lemon juice is typically served in a tall, slender glass, filling it at least two-thirds of the way. It may even be served on a silver tray alongside a carafe of water and a dish of sugar.
On my first alcohol-free outing at a nondescript terrace facing a bustling rue Montorgueil, I skipped the sugar and topped off the glass with water. As someone who grew up in the US, this preference may be the least American thing about me. Whenever I journey across the Atlantic, I find that food transitions from overtly sweet to wondering why sugar is even added to pizza sauce.
Surprisingly, France is somewhat leading the way in crafting non-alcoholic beverages as more individuals, especially Gen Z, opt for alcohol-free options. There are now alternatives like JNPR, an imitation gin distilled from juniper berries, and Amazaké Ya, a slightly sweet fermented rice drink made locally from leftover mash used in saké production (in this case, utilizing French riz de camargue).
Upmarket cocktail bars now universally offer mocktails that are as creatively and daringly crafted as their alcoholic counterparts. These mocktails incorporate ingredients like olive brine, butterfly pea tea, chamomile, and Szechuan pepper. However, the experience of sipping a citron pressé brings forth a mindful moment that other non-alcoholic substitutes may lack, even the simple ones like ginger ale or kombucha (which is also a wonderful substitute for beer), as they are already in their consumable form.
The citron pressé is delightfully tart, encouraging slow sipping, much like enjoying a cocktail or a glass of wine. The tingling sensation on the tip of my tongue and the imagined surge of vitamins coursing through my veins make for a refreshing experience. As I create more space in the glass with each sip, I add more water and repeat the process.
Participating in a dry month wasn’t a monumental challenge that left me with a sense of accomplishment at the end. My friends nonchalantly acknowledged my abstention. However, sometimes taking a break redirects your attention and leaves you unexpectedly revitalized. It’s akin to savoring a citron pressé on a French terrace during the summer, sitting at a round table adorned with quaint Duralex water glasses, while the Parisian sun beats down on the stone streets.
Alexander Hurst, a writer based in France and adjunct lecturer at Sciences Po, the Paris Institute of Political Studies.
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