The rise of vegan diets has undeniably been one of the most prominent trends of the past decade. Food brands, restaurants, and cafes have all jumped on board, introducing plant-based options to their menus. However, the recent episode of Supermarkets Unwrapped: The Vegan Aisle left viewers feeling disgusted as they learned about the production processes behind various plant-based products.
In this Channel 4 documentary, Helen Lawal visited Tesco to delve into the vegan burger trend. Meanwhile, Kate Quilton explored the process of milking oats, and John Whaite visited a sausage factory to witness the production of vegan bangers. Briony May Williams even learned how to make an eggless quiche. Despite the attempt to shed light on the industry, viewers were quick to criticize the show, expressing their discomfort and disappointment.
One viewer tweeted, “Urgh… I rarely watch live TV, but watching Supermarkets Unwrapped and feeling sick watching the food being made… this is not a good program.” Another user stated, “This Channel 4 program really showed some disgusting concoctions in the making of vegan food.” The sentiment was echoed by a viewer who exclaimed, “Dear God, the extent manufacturers will go to produce ultra-processed food to replace natural foods. If you want to be vegan, eat actual plants, not this synthetic sh**.”
The team behind the show was particularly interested in investigating plant-based sausages. They noticed that many of these sausages on the market were coated with a sausage casing resembling the traditional meat variety. John visited Heck Foods in Yorkshire, where he met with innovations manager Callum Smith. Callum explained that the casing gave the sausages a satisfying “snap” and revealed, “We use textured vegetable protein and have developed flavors to mimic the taste of pork sausages.”
He continued, “We inject the meat-free sausage mix and a gel into this little head simultaneously. The gel is made from seaweed called alginate.” John observed as the gel stiffened after being immersed in calcium chloride. The vegetable sausage mix then passed under a curtain of calcium chloride solution, and the skin was cut, resulting in individual portions.
In another segment of the show, Helen visited the development kitchen at Tesco and met with product development manager Faye Hasnip. They discussed the growing trend of plant-based products, with Faye noting that customers were more connected to the term “plant-based.” She said, “Customers are looking for something that celebrates plants and allows them to experiment.” They discussed different plant-based burger options, highlighting how food developers had created meatless burgers that closely resembled their meat counterparts.
Looking to the future, Faye emphasized that customers were seeking vegetable-packed options. Head development chef Jamie Robinson showcased a wide range of vegetables on his workbench, explaining, “We start with a base, mix it until we have a dough.” He further stated, “This is the absolute trend right now. It’s a great way of adding extra flavor.” By smoking, charring, and roasting vegetables, they were able to enhance the taste and nutritional value of the dishes.
Interestingly, this episode aired at a time when veganism had experienced a decline. Many brands had decided to discontinue or reduce their plant-based options due to diminishing sales. Pret A Manger, for example, closed half of its vegetarian and vegan-only stores, acknowledging that many customers did not identify as full-time vegetarians. Even renowned faux-meat retailer Meatless Farm faced difficulties and ultimately filed for administration.
The decline in demand for faux-meat products could be attributed to various factors. Some vegans cited the rising costs of alternatives as a reason for opting for more basic protein sources such as beans and pulses. Despite this decline, popular chains like Costa and Starbucks still offer vegan options on their menus, although new additions have been limited. The recent summer menu from Costa lacked new vegan options, while Starbucks included a plant-based breakfast wrap but nothing meat- and dairy-free for lunch.
In conclusion, the episode of Supermarkets Unwrapped shed light on the production processes behind various plant-based products, leaving viewers feeling disturbed. The program sparked discussions about the alarming lengths manufacturers go to in order to create ultra-processed foods. While the plant-based trend continues to grow, it faces challenges such as the decline in demand and rising costs. Nevertheless, brands and restaurants are still striving to meet the demands of customers who are looking to explore and celebrate plant-based options.
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