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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s new guide to Milan.
Whenever I visit Milan for a weekend getaway after a hectic week, I always make sure to stay at the Palazzo Parigi hotel, located next to the Brera design district. In my opinion, it’s one of the best hotels in Milan, offering a genuine sense of family hospitality. As the proud owner of a family-run business like the Zegna Group, I have a deep appreciation for other family-owned enterprises. The hotel’s Bistrot Lounge Caffè Parigi, with its beautiful private garden, is where I begin and end my day. In the mornings, I enjoy a delightful breakfast consisting of coffee, seasonal fresh fruit, and a croissant. And in the evenings, I unwind with a glass of Barbaresco, away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
After breakfast, my usual ritual involves taking a walk to the nearby Pinacoteca di Brera gallery, home to one of the world’s most breathtaking collections of Italian paintings. The museum’s permanent collection features artworks by renowned artists such as Andrea Mantegna, Piero della Francesca, Tintoretto, Caravaggio, and Carlo Crivelli. These masterpieces will transport you back to the grand Renaissance courts of Italy.
Being a passionate walker, I find the Brera neighborhood to be a paradise for city explorers. Its cobblestone streets, historic buildings, bars, restaurants, and artisan workshops make it a unique and charming area to wander through. Two streets that hold a special place in my heart are Via Fiori Chiari and Via Fiori Oscuri, as they still retain their historical charm. Whenever I find myself strolling down Via Fiori Oscuri, I can’t help but make my way to the Brera Botanical Garden. Growing up in a family that values the environment, I find solace in this garden, surrounded by nature in the heart of the city.
One of the joys of visiting Milan is getting lost in its streets, buildings, and courtyards. While most people opt to walk through the bustling fashion district of Quadrilatero della Moda, I prefer to explore the tranquility of the Quadrilatero del Silenzio. Every building in this elegant neighborhood is a masterpiece in its own right. A must-visit venue in this area is Villa Necchi Campiglio, a fascinating Art Deco landmark and museum. Nestled amidst an elegant garden, this villa was designed by Piero Portaluppi between 1932 and 1935 for the Nedda and Gigina Necchi sisters and Angelo Campiglio. The villa is home to important artworks by Tiepolo, Canaletto, Sironi, de Chirico, Martini, as well as renowned 20th-century artists like Picasso, Fontana, Modigliani, and Matisse. The villa is open to the public, as the Necchi sisters entrusted it to the Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI) in 2001. FAI is a non-profit foundation dedicated to preserving and enhancing Italy’s historical, artistic, and landscape heritage, including my family’s Oasi Zegna natural territory in Biella.
If you share my passion for art, I highly recommend visiting another nearby museum, the Fondazione Luigi Rovati. Named after the esteemed physician, researcher, and pharmaceutical entrepreneur, this museum is housed in a historic palazzo. The Rovati family’s dedication and passion led to the museum’s opening in September of last year after careful restoration and redesign. The museum boasts an incredible collection ranging from Etruscan artifacts to contemporary art, showcasing archaeological finds alongside works by Lucio Fontana, Andy Warhol, Giulio Paolini, and Alberto Giacometti. Don’t miss the museum’s newly opened Caffè-Bistrot, helmed by chef Andrea Aprea, a perfect spot for a leisurely lunch.
To end my day, I stroll through the Giardini Indro Montanelli on my way back to the Palazzo Parigi hotel. While it may not be as well-known as Parco Sempione, it’s my preferred park for a peaceful walk. After immersing myself in art all day, I return to the hotel’s beautiful indoor winter garden for their exquisite risotto alla milanese. This day-long exploration of Milan’s historical, artistic, and natural heritage is how I rejuvenate my spirit. Milan has evolved and grown with its people throughout its rich history of over two and a half millennia. It’s a city that embraces the future while cherishing its past, hiding its treasures for true wanderers to discover.
Gildo Zegna is the chairman and CEO of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group.
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