In the morning sun, downtown Faro’s streets are a mesmerizing sight. The faded art deco shopfronts stand next to crumbling rusting balustrades and fondant tiles. A bank turns the corner, resembling an ice-cream sandwich hit by pistachio light. The buildings here are more unconventional than artistic, a representation of the recent past, and I’m captivated.
But amidst the dusty anomalies in this overlooked city, it’s the modernist architecture that steals the spotlight. With its strict lines, flat roofs, and sloping angles, Faro boasts over 500 mid-century buildings, the highest concentration in southern Europe. Surprisingly, it’s only now that people are starting to take notice. From Rio-style high-rises adorned with geometric scallops to modernist villas, the striking clarity and audacity of these structures attract modern enthusiasts.
In the early 1950s, a group of Portuguese architects, led by Algarvian Manuel Gomes da Costa, returned home after making their fortunes in South America. Inspired by the works of Le Corbusier, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Oscar Niemeyer, they aimed to rejuvenate the region and addressed Faro’s lack of character through their own take on modernism, known as the “South Modern” style.
To put it simply, Faro can be considered the Palm Springs of Portugal, although its buildings maintain a unique flavor. Gomes da Costa’s style of tropical futurism, inspired by Brazil, incorporated nature and elements in innovative ways. His cobogós, inspired by Brazil, are concrete lattices that cool facades and filter light, creating shadowy abstractions. Everything he created celebrates the sun in some form, making it ironic that these buildings are now drawing people away from the beaches and onto the streets.
One standout location in Faro is The Modernist hotel, situated on Rua Dom Francisco Gomes. It was once a maritime office, but it has been transformed into guest apartments for architectural enthusiasts. The hotel embraces simplicity, without TVs or art on the walls. Instead, it offers green marble, red vinyl floors, and a bed that feels like home. The Modernist encapsulates a no-frills luxury with its focus on clean lines.
Owners Christophe and Angelique, Parisians who fell in love with Faro, consider it a design and architectural miracle. They believe it shares a similar vibe with Havana, neglected but possessing a wonderful heritage. The city may not be the prettiest on the Algarve, nor is it polished, but it offers plenty of hidden gems that need to be preserved.
Christophe and Angelique have become unofficial ambassadors for the modernism movement in Faro. They invite guests to experience the city’s modernist charms through curated architectural walking tours, guiding them through lesser-known streets rather than traditional tourist spots.
Beyond the city center, as the palm-lined avenues stretch wider and estates fan out like petals, buildings blend futuristic elements with the past. Every detail counts, and everywhere you turn, there’s a door handle worth admiring or a tile-covered wall that exudes geometric excitement.
The spirit of Faro carries a South American vibe – laid-back and refreshingly low-key. On Rua Emiliano Costa and Rua dos Bombeiros Portugueses, in the South Modern residential area, mid-century houses retain their original features while exuding character. Should you peek over a geometric-patterned balcony, you may receive an impromptu invitation to explore the interiors. Faro’s atmosphere attracts both a younger crowd of surfers and off-grid hippies, as well as artists and thinkers. It’s a place for ideas.
When city life becomes tiresome, locals and visitors often head to Faro Island, a narrow stretch of golden sand across the Ria Formosa lagoons. A catamaran ferry transports passengers to the island for a small fee, offering a scenic 25-minute ride accompanied by the captain’s Portuguese rendition of Céline Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On.” Faro’s skyline slowly fades into the distance, resembling an angular iceberg.
At the island’s pier, I meet Richard Walker, a British artist and avid modernism enthusiast who spends part of his time in Faro. He describes the community here as difficult to define, with young surfers, off-grid hippies, and local Portuguese residents coexisting. As an artist and observer, Richard believes Faro is a place for ideas to thrive. We stop by Café do Zé, a charming rusting hut atop a sand dune, where I enjoy milky cafe galão and pork bifanas. Richard shares information about the Faro Modernist Weekend, an event he organized and will repeat this year. The international appetite for modernism is far-reaching, and the event includes dinners, art exhibitions, and architectural walking tours to showcase Faro’s modernist charm.
Walking along the headland, I admire the Atlantic-facing houses, some with modernist designs, while others feature minarets reminiscent of Morocco and Tangier in the distance. The Aeromar hotel fits right into this aesthetic, designed by Gomes da Costa with period features that bridge the past and the future. With its inglenook fireplace and marble staircases, the hotel exudes a distinct charm, reminiscent of a David Lynch film.
Recently, Hermès shot a fashion campaign at the Aeromar, creating an opportunity for the hotel’s success or downfall. Faro may be a modernist city, but it will never fully embrace modernity.
The Modernist Weekend takes place from November 10-12. The event includes architectural walking tours and various cultural experiences to celebrate design in the sunshine.
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