Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto
Get ready for Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, the upcoming exhibition at London’s V&A Museum. Join Katie Wright as she travels to Paris to retrace the trailblazing path of the iconic fashion designer.
On the ground floor, a well-dressed mother tries on loafers while her children accompany her. At a glass counter, two American women eye a black quilted handbag presented by an assistant wearing white gloves. Upstairs, shoppers explore a range of bubblegum pink tweed suits and dresses.
When Coco Chanel established her Couture House on this street in Paris on New Year’s Day 1910, could she have imagined that the Chanel label would still be thriving over a century later?
Born in the Loire Valley in 1883, Coco Chanel was taught to sew by nuns in the orphanage where she was sent at the age of 11 after her mother’s death. After working as a seamstress and cabaret singer, Coco began designing hats and opened hat shops in various French towns with funding from her lovers. She eventually made her way to Paris and established her millinery boutique at 21 Rue Cambon. She later became a couturier and set up her atelier at number 31.
Above the flagship boutique on Rue Cambon sits Coco Chanel’s apartment. This second-floor space, where she received guests but never slept, has been preserved to this day. Oriole Cullen, curator of modern textiles and fashion at the V&A Museum, describes it as a fascinating space with elements that connect to Chanel’s designs. Cross stitch quilting, lion motifs, and the number five are all present, symbolizing the brand that has come to represent her.
Cullen had the opportunity to inspect the apartment while curating the Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto exhibition, which will open at the V&A Museum on September 16, following its stops in Paris, Melbourne, and Tokyo. The apartment is typically available by special request only but is closed for August.
While you may not be able to get a glimpse inside Coco’s apartment, you can visit one of her regular hangouts in Paris. Café Angelina, a popular tearoom, was frequented by writers, painters, and fashion people in Coco’s time. The café remains busy to this day, with a line of eager customers stretching down Rue de Rivoli. Indulge in a taste of Coco’s favorite Mont-Blanc and experience the vivacious atmosphere that inspired her.
Known for her rebellious spirit, Coco Chanel liberated women from restrictive garments and corsets, introducing casual clothing that was fashionable and practical. She incorporated textiles like jersey that were not previously considered high fashion materials. However, Chanel’s controversial life included collaborating with the Nazis during World War II and displaying open hostility towards certain groups.
You can explore more of Chanel’s legacy at the Palais Galliera museum, where the Fashion Manifesto exhibition debuted in 2020. The current show, Fashion On The Move, traces the history of sportswear for women. Among the displays are Chanel designs, including an elegant black taffeta evening gown and a surf-inspired electric blue sequined blazer.
Planning a trip to Paris? The Monsieur Georges Hotel and Spa is the perfect place to stay for a long weekend. Located off the Champs Elysée, this Haussmann-style building combines classic Parisian elegance with luxurious modern amenities. Start your day with made-to-order eggs and heavenly pastries in the emerald green tiled dining room.
Another one of Coco’s favorite spots was the Ritz Paris on Place Vendome, where she checked in back in 1937 and remained until her death in 1971. While the Coco Chanel suite may be out of reach for most, you can still enjoy the iconic hotel’s afternoon tea experience. Savor a selection of delicious cakes and pastries, and take home your leftovers in the chicest doggy bag possible.
From her revolutionary fashion designs to her impeccable taste in food and accommodations, Gabrielle Chanel remains an enduring icon in the world of fashion and beyond.
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