When Luis Herrera prepares meals in the kitchen, he expertly incorporates a diverse range of ingredients from different culinary traditions. Alongside guajillo and ancho chiles and fresh masa from his Mexican restaurant Ensenada, he adds Korean gochugaru, Thai curry paste, and Venezuelan ají dulce. Drawing inspiration from Latin American influences, Herrera believes that the magic happens when different cuisines come together.
After attending culinary school in Caracas, Herrera gained experience working at renowned establishments such as Alto in Venezuela and Cosme in Manhattan. Last year, he fulfilled his dream of opening Ensenada, where the colorful components that define his food can be found in the compact yet efficient kitchen. Each salsa, marinade, and pickle has its designated pint container, resembling a cabinet of magical potions at the chef’s disposal. Among his various creations, one of my favorites is the fish taco al pastor, which combines marinated fish, pineapple pico de gallo, fresh corn tortillas, and a rich brick-red adobo sauce layered with chiles.
Adobo, meaning marinade, takes center stage in Herrera’s recipe and requires significant time and effort. Nevertheless, the resulting mixture adds warmth and complexity to the otherwise light and breezy al pastor. Adobo is an essential element of Mexican cuisine, and Herrera considers himself an eternal student of this culinary tradition. He constantly seeks opportunities to taste and learn wherever he goes and cooks, always approaching the process with respect.
In this recipe, the chiles represent the fire, while the pineapple brings a refreshing coolness. When Herrera first opened Ensenada, he used out-of-season tomatoes that diluted the vibrant coastal flavors he aimed to highlight in his fish tacos. However, he made a pivotal decision to replace them with diced pineapple, and it proved to be a game-changer.
An integral aspect of the fish al pastor is the charred effect. Al pastor, originating from Lebanese immigrants who brought the method of barbecuing meat on a rotating spit to Mexico, traditionally involves placing a whole peeled pineapple atop layers of pork. The pineapple acts as a golden crown, continuously basting the meat with its juicy goodness as it rotates on the spit. While most home cooks won’t have a trompo (a rotating vertical spit) in their backyard, employing the blazing heat of a grill, combined with the tongue-tingling spiciness of the adobo, yields exceptional flavor and pays homage to the traditional method.
What makes this al pastor recipe incredibly versatile is the fact that both the adobo and pineapple pico de gallo can be prepared in advance and used with various proteins or vegetables throughout the week. According to Herrera, you can use chicken, pork, or even carrots to enjoy the flavors of this recipe in different ways.
At Ensenada, named after a port city in Baja California, Herrera serves a butterflied fish al pastor that perfectly aligns with the “mariscos y mezcales” theme. Diners can assemble their own tacos using the provided tortillas. However, for simplicity, Herrera suggests using boneless fish fillets when preparing this recipe at home. While any meaty whitefish works well, robust and buttery options like swordfish, snapper, and branzino are particularly delightful when kissed by the flames. In fact, every component of this taco can benefit from a touch of fire, including the tortillas.
There’s an unmatched appeal to a perfectly warmed corn tortilla, as it becomes soft and steamy. If you don’t have the luxury of having a nearby molino that grinds fresh masa, store-bought tortillas will do just fine. However, what you can’t replicate from store-bought options is the ceremonial aspect of making these fish tacos. Consider inviting your neighbors over for a backyard feast, complete with grilled corn and a cooler filled with iced lagers, enjoying the sunshine alongside these delicious tacos. Alternatively, you can keep the components in your fridge for personal enjoyment. Whenever a midnight snack craving strikes, a taco becomes the epitome of culinary creativity using leftover ingredients.
Recipe: Fish Tacos al Pastor. (Link to the recipe: [Fish Tacos al Pastor](https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1024290-fish-tacos-al-pastor)).
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