Discover Origin City, a new restaurant located near Fergus Henderson’s iconic St John in London. While it may seem audacious to claim a “nose to tail” approach when St John is just a stone’s throw away, Origin City has its own unique offerings. Owned by the Landsberg family, the restaurant sources its meat and seafood from their organic estate in Argyll and Bute and Loch Fyne, respectively. They even produce their own wines from a winery in southern France. From butchery to aging cuts and crafting their own charcuterie, Origin City takes pride in their meticulous approach to food preparation.
Step inside and you’ll be transported back to the 90s with a power-lunch atmosphere. The comfortable setting invites you to enjoy a leisurely meal, complete with starters, mains, and desserts that are simply magnificent. Head chef Graham Chatham, with his background at renowned establishments like Rules and Daylesford Organic, brings an old-school touch to the dishes, showcasing care and attention to detail.
Indulge in their smoked coppa, salami Milanese, and ham, sliced thinly so you can read the FT through it. Served warm, the fat in the meat melts on your tongue, leaving a depth of flavor. The pickles and pork rillettes add a delightful contrast in texture and taste. Don’t miss the ‘nduja butter, a rich blend of shredded spiced pork, chili, and whipped dairy fat. Spread it over warm toast for an indulgent experience.
The menu features starters and mains, with options like roasted Tamworth pork loin, vitello tonnato, and smoked Morteau sausage. Each dish bursts with flavor and is skillfully prepared. The restaurant’s nose-to-tail ethos shines through in the roasted Texel hogget, where liver, kidney, and merguez sausage elevate the dish. To complement your meal, order the charred long-stemmed broccoli with anchovy sauce and the triple-cooked chips, a testament to the time and effort put into each dish.
While meat takes center stage, Origin City does offer vegetarian options like summer beets with pickled pear and goat’s curd and a courgette flower with goat’s cheese and romesco. However, make no mistake, this is a meat-centric restaurant. One standout dish is the stone bass, with its perfectly cooked flesh and crispy skin topped with trout roe. Accompanied by a warm “salad Olivier,” this dish showcases the kitchen’s classical culinary skills.
When it comes to dessert, Origin City doesn’t disappoint. Indulge in their flawlessly crafted crème brûlée or savor the log of chocolate mousse with a raspberry compote center, encased in dark chocolate and served with peanut butter cream. While there are a few missteps, like the cube of fudge made with beef fat, the tiny, warm honey madeleines make up for it.
In terms of value, start your meal with affordable starters in the mid-teens and enjoy mains priced around £30. The thoughtfully curated wine list offers options ranging from the low £20s to just above £40. What’s more, you can enjoy your favorite wine from their sister wine bar next door at 56 West Smithfield. Pair it with rosemary-crusted nuts and continue your culinary journey by ordering a whole bottle for just £27.
Origin City may not be pushing the boundaries of gastronomy, but it excels at traditional, expertly prepared dishes. With its warm ambiance, exceptional service, and a menu that embodies the nose-to-tail philosophy, this restaurant is truly a hidden gem.
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