Haute couture, the epitome of luxury fashion, serves as a valuable indicator of the ever-changing preferences of the ultra-wealthy. So, what does it mean when jeans become a recurring theme? Not just any jeans, but rather an illusion of them. These “non-denim” jeans utilize opulent materials and intricate craftsmanship to create garments that mimic the appearance of denim, despite being constructed from entirely different fabrics.
The trend of deceptive jeans began last year with Bottega Veneta’s spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection, featuring Kate Moss donning leather pants printed with photo-realistic denim detailing. Unsurprisingly, these “jeans” caused quite a stir in the fashion world.
Building on this illusionary theme, Balenciaga showcased “jeans” and jackets made of cotton canvas intricately painted with oils during its haute couture presentation in July. Rumored to retail at $27,000 (£21,000), these pants exemplify the exorbitance associated with the haute couture realm. Additionally, Julien Dossena, as the latest guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, created dazzling jeans entirely adorned with beads.
Valentino, under Pierpaolo Piccioli, sought to incorporate sparkle into their haute couture “jeans.” Constructed from silk gazar, an organza-like fabric, the jeans were embroidered with minuscule beads and dyed in various indigo shades to imitate the nuanced appearance of denim. These jeans required four weeks of meticulous handiwork to complete, as shared by Piccioli on Instagram.
Over the years, jeans have experienced numerous shifts in popularity, particularly in terms of fit. Spray-on skinny jeans have given way to looser styles with names like “mom” and “boyfriend,” and most recently, the unexpected return of low-rise jeans.
Despite these changes, jeans have remained a staple in modern wardrobes. Few relics of 19th-century fashion have endured to this day, but the invention of Levi Strauss in 1873—jeans—has cemented its place in history. Originally conceived as durable workwear for laborers, jeans were primarily worn by miners, farmers, and factory workers. They were reserved for the blue-collar working class, while the white-collar middle and upper class opted for tailored trousers or slacks.
The transformation of jeans occurred in the 1950s when counter-cultural movements reshaped their image, leading to their sudden embrace as a symbol of coolness, particularly with the influence of Marlon Brando and James Dean. In the 1960s, jeans became the unofficial uniform of rock stars, and in the 1970s, they were customized for punk fashion.
Throughout these phases, jeans maintained their association with the working class but became representative of nonconformist and rebellious lifestyles. Bing Crosby even faced ejection from a hotel for wearing jeans, emphasizing the garment’s history as a vehicle for making a statement.
It wasn’t until the 1980s, with iconic Calvin Klein advertisements featuring a young Brooke Shields and Claudia Schiffer modeling for Guess, that jeans began to symbolize status and aspiration for the middle and upper classes.
Since the mid-2000s, nearly every significant fashion brand has incorporated jeans in their collections, typically exploring different washes, bleaches, and embellishments. However, this recent endeavor to create non-denim jeans represents a departure from the norm, according to denim designer and historian Mohsin Sajid. He cites Valentino’s bead garment, which, from a distance, appears as a pair of classic Levi’s 501 jeans, but upon closer inspection, reveals itself as an intricately crafted piece covered in thousands of beads.
Sajid explains that designers are tapping into the essence of jeans, which haven’t fundamentally evolved since their creation in 1922. Instead of using actual denim, luxury brands justify their exploration of jeans by creating garments that resemble denim from afar but are made from alternative materials. This approach allows the jeans to stay relevant in a market flooded with affordable options from brands like Uniqlo.
According to Harriette Richards, the rise of non-denim jeans aligns with the emergence of “quiet luxury.” In an era marked by economic and environmental crises, ostentatious displays of fashion are often perceived as garish or even offensive. Valentino’s haute couture jeans, for instance, embody the epitome of everyman’s luxurious garments. While these pieces require significant time and money to create and purchase, they provide the illusion of accessibility.
Leather masquerading as denim and silk disguised as the working-class uniform—these are secrets shared between designers and affluent wearers. They represent the expression of luxury in a world where luxury itself is seen as somewhat taboo. If you know, then you understand the allure of a pair of “jeans” that unexpectedly glimmer when they catch the light.
Denial of responsibility! VigourTimes is an automatic aggregator of Global media. In each content, the hyperlink to the primary source is specified. All trademarks belong to their rightful owners, and all materials to their authors. For any complaint, please reach us at – [email protected]. We will take necessary action within 24 hours.
