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I find it fascinating to surrender control of my dining experience and allow someone else to guide my food and drink choices. And when it comes to sake selection at the hottest new omakases around the world, sommeliers are truly in their element.
Take Jōji in Manhattan, for example. Head sommelier Junxi Chen has put a unique twist on their sake list by focusing on sakes with distinct varietal or geographic characteristics. To enhance the tasting experience, these sakes are served in wine glasses. One standout sake is the Kamoshibito Kuheiji 2022 Eau du Désir ($42). Chen explains that while the brewery has been around for centuries, Kuheiji Kuno, the brewer behind this new-wave sake, brings a vigneron mindset from his experience making wine in Burgundy and running a negociant in Morey-Saint-Denis. Kuno is among the few sake brewers striving to find terroir in sake production. Chen describes the sake as floral, with notes of jasmine and stone fruit, and a refreshing, spritzy finish.
Meanwhile, at the Michelin-starred Kaneyoshi in Los Angeles, sake has taken on a glamorous touch. A recent addition to their menu is the Ohmine 2 Grain ($135), a modernist sake co-owned by Pharrell Williams and Nigo, the artistic director of Kenzo. This sake brings a touch of A-list glitz to the dining experience.
In London, sushi master Endo Kazutoshi at his omakase restaurant, Endo at the Rotunda, pays careful attention to the sake list. One standout is Hakkaisan’s Junmai Daiginjo Kouwa Gura (£146), made from rice polished to its highest grade. Additionally, he features Mimurosugi ($54), a tangy Junmai Daiginjo that was recommended to him by guests, and Hayaseura Daiginjo (HK$690 – about £68), a drier-style sake which pairs exceptionally well with eel. Endo takes pride in serving sake in vessels of his own design, allowing guests to choose the vessel that speaks to them.
Vessels also play a significant role at Sushi Kanesaka, located in London’s 45 Park Lane hotel. Guests are given the opportunity to choose their first glass from a selection of 20 colored edo kiriko cups. For example, a sparkling Dassai 45 Junmai Daiginjo unfiltered sake (£24) is served in a champagne flute, while an umami-rich Noguchi Naohiko Limited Edition (£519) is presented in a trumpet-shaped tin cup. Each vessel is selected to enhance the characteristics of the sake being served.
Bowie Tsang, the sake sommelier at Taku in Mayfair, recommends Juyondai Tatsuno Otoshigo (S$1,060 – about £620) by Takagi Shuzo. Tsang describes this sake producer as the “sake equivalent of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti,” highlighting their use of a unique rice strain with a name that translates to “the bastard son of a dragon.” The sake is known for its fragrant, opulent, and fruity profile, with a spicy finish.
Lastly, in Tokyo’s Bulgari Hotel, Sushi Hōseki is the crown jewel. With only eight seats, this omakase is curated by three Michelin-starred chef Kenji Gyoten. Gyoten feels a strong connection to the sakes produced by Aramasa, an innovative sake maker located in the Akita prefecture. He has worked with them since his early days as an apprentice, and their sakes hold a special place in his heart.
If you’re looking to embark on a truly remarkable dining experience, consider exploring these omakases and their carefully crafted sake selections. Sign up for FT Weekend Festival on Saturday, September 2nd, at Kenwood House Gardens in London. Enjoy talks, debates, Q&A sessions, as well as wine and rum tastings with Alice Lascelles. Register now at ft.com/festival. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to indulge in a culinary adventure.
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