The culinary reputation of Italy’s third-largest city is primarily centered around its most famous delicacy: pizza. In Naples, you’ll find numerous pizzerias catering to a constant stream of food enthusiasts. However, there are also exceptional trattorias, osterias, and ristorantes that offer a diverse range of dishes beyond pizza. These establishments take advantage of the abundance of fresh, local ingredients from the Campania region, such as livestock, seafood, vegetables, and fruits, to create inventive and traditional Neapolitan recipes.
If you’re looking to explore the culinary scene beyond the crowded pizza joints, here are five addresses in five different neighborhoods that offer both classic and creative interpretations of beloved Neapolitan cuisine. Each place is unique, ensuring a delightful dining experience.
1. Buon Appetito: Located in the Quartieri Spagnoli district, this family-run restaurant exudes a warm and welcoming atmosphere. As you enjoy your meal, you’ll be surrounded by swirly, hand-painted, 18th-century wall tiles while listening to opera arias and sentimental Italian ballads. The menu features a variety of authentic Neapolitan dishes, including fried eggplant, zucchini, rice balls, meatballs, and ziti with rich tomato-beef Neapolitan ragu. They also serve delicious seafood options, such as anchovies and cod in a flavorful tomato, caper, and olive sauce. Don’t forget to try their sticky baba au rhum for a sweet ending to your meal.
2. Tripperia O’Russ: This restaurant pays homage to the cucina povera tradition by serving a favorite Neapolitan dish made from discarded entrails. Originally enjoyed by Napoli’s lower classes, tripe is now considered a culinary delicacy. Tripperia O’Russ, established in 1945, is widely regarded as Naples’s top tripe destination. The simple yet bright dining room attracts locals from all walks of life who come together to savor the slow-cooked innards in soups, pastas, and stews. The Tris Trippa sampler, featuring three different tripe preparations, is a great option for those new to this unique dish. Another popular choice is the veal tripe carpaccio, served with just a squeeze of lemon. Although they do not offer desserts, you can complement your meal with a bottle of Peroni beer.
3. La Locanda Gesù Vecchio: Despite its rustic décor, this cozy restaurant in Naples’s historic center offers a modern twist on traditional Neapolitan cuisine. The menu includes classic dishes like eggplant parmigiana and pasta with potatoes and provolone cheese. They take particular pride in their mozzarella dishes, showcasing the versatility of this beloved Campania cheese. Try their mozzarella in carrozza, a mouthwatering sandwich made with grilled bread and melted mozzarella, or indulge in their crispy fried paccheri filled with a delicious combination of tomato sauce, beef, pork, pork lard, raisins, pine nuts, and mozzarella. Don’t miss out on the rabbit cacciatore, a hearty meat dish inspired by the nearby Ischia island. La Locanda Gesù Vecchio is also known for its extensive craft beer selection, including their own mild and easy-drinking house I.P.A.
4. Seafront Pasta Bar: Located in Piazza Municipio, this chic restaurant offers a minimalist Scandinavian aesthetic and a breathtaking view of the square. Their signature dish is ziti with Genovese sauce, a Neapolitan specialty consisting of finely sliced onions slow-cooked for hours, combined with olive oil and tender beef. Seafront Pasta Bar is attached to the Di Martino pasta manufacturer, so you can be sure that you’ll enjoy high-quality, locally-made pasta. Their menu also features spaghetti alle vongole, a buttery noodle dish with plump clams and charred garlic, as well as bucatini with an Ischia-inspired tomato sauce and shredded rabbit. For dessert, try their unique “pastamisù,” a classic tiramisù topped with coffee-soaked pasta shards.
5. Sustanza: Tucked away in Galleria Principe di Napoli, this recently opened restaurant offers elegant and sophisticated dining. With its Liberty-esque wallpaper and real Tiffany lamps, Sustanza provides a charming atmosphere for an exceptional culinary experience. Chef Marco Ambrosino, who gained recognition at 28 Posti in Milan, curates a menu featuring intricate dishes made with southern Italian and Mediterranean ingredients. Indulge in artichoke hearts filled with mountain truffle cream and succulent mutton in a light sauce of jus and fermented butter. For dessert, savor the herbaceous fig-leaf sorbet in laurel oil. Afterward, head to the ground-floor lounge for their signature Strega del Vesuvio cocktail, a tangy and smoky digestivo made with Scotch, gin, coffee liqueur, and cordial of tomatoes grown on Vesuvio’s slopes.
These five addresses represent the diversity and richness of Neapolitan cuisine beyond pizza. By venturing outside the typical pizza establishments, you’ll discover a world of flavors, creativity, and tradition that will undoubtedly satisfy your taste buds. Enjoy your culinary journey through Naples!
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