The Winemaker’s ‘Ideal’ Wine Aging Site Didn’t Live Up to Expectations

Ocean Fathoms, a winemaking company, believed that aging wine on the ocean floor near Santa Barbara would yield exceptional results. However, their plans were halted when the California Coastal Commission discovered their illegal activities. As a result, the company was ordered to retrieve the 2,000 bottles of wine that had been fermenting underwater without proper authorization. These bottles, which were adorned with marine-themed decorations and valued at up to $500 each, have now been destroyed as part of a plea agreement between Ocean Fathoms co-founders Emanuele Azzaretto and Todd Hahn and the prosecutors.

The issue at hand extended beyond the unauthorized fermentation process. Ocean Fathoms was operating without a business license, an alcohol sales permit from Alcoholic Beverage Control, and federally approved labeling. Additionally, they collected sales tax without remitting it to the state and made unverified claims of donating profits to charity. Santa Barbara County District Attorney John T. Savrnoch criticized the company for disregarding consumer and environmental laws. The wine was disposed of at a wastewater treatment plant, with the FDA deeming it unsuitable for human consumption.

However, Ocean Fathoms has since received FDA approval for their underwater aging process, a development that was disclosed upon the resolution of the legal case. Azzaretto and Hahn pleaded no contest to misdemeanor charges related to illegally discharging material into US waters, selling alcohol without a license, and aiding and abetting investor fraud. By avoiding felony charges, Azzaretto prevented potential deportation back to Italy. The co-founders are now on probation and required to repay $50,000 to an investor. They aspire to resume their operations with the necessary permits and are also pursuing patents for their closure and sealant technologies.

If the concept of ocean-aged wine intrigues you, consider that it has gained traction in several countries. The idea is partly inspired by the notion that wine recovered from shipwrecks holds particular value. In 2021, Los Angeles Times columnist Steve Lopez participated in a taste test with experts, comparing traditionally aged wine to ocean-aged wine. The consensus was that the ocean-aged wine outperformed its conventional counterpart, although one expert noted that the difference may not be immediately noticeable to the average consumer.

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