When it comes to the perfect getaway destinations in Turkey, Kaş and Kalkan are the true gems. These two cities are exquisitely beautiful, with their charming cobbled streets and old stone houses draped in bougainvillea. Back in the 1990s, when tourism began to flourish in Antalya, both cities became popular among British holidaymakers.
During my first visit to Kaş in 1994, Kalkan was still a small town. Kaş, on the other hand, was the bigger and livelier sibling, where you could have a proper night out and experience thrilling taxi rides in the early hours of the morning. However, things have changed over the past 30 years. Kalkan has transformed into a Turkish version of Monte Carlo, attracting British tourists with its plethora of restaurants, villas, and an air of sophistication. On the other hand, Kaş has managed to retain its original charm. It remains a working town, with its atmospheric old streets and boat-lined harbor. While luxury villas and boutique hotels now exist in Kaş, they are primarily located on the Çukurbağ peninsula, four miles away from the town center.
Although Kalkan still holds a special place in my heart, I find Kaş to be the ultimate destination for an authentic Turkish experience. Staying on the peninsula offers a peaceful escape, although transportation relies on taxis or self-drive due to the lack of a bus service. Villa providers like Simpson and Vintage offer accommodations on the peninsula, while the Discerning Collection offers two hotels, Mandalina Suites and Deniz Feneri Lighthouse, perfect for a romantic retreat. For those who prefer to stay in the heart of the town, Hotel Sonne provides a comfortable and affordable base.
Like Kalkan, Kaş doesn’t have many beaches. Instead, various beach clubs can be found along the town’s coastal strip, where visitors can relax for the day and enjoy sunbeds on over-water decks, often accompanied by a restaurant or cafe. My favorite spots include Leymona Beach, conveniently located a few minutes’ walk from the main harbor, and Kaş Beach, where frozen margaritas perfectly transition a late afternoon into a warm, sun-drenched evening.
While lazing on sun loungers for a week is an option, Kaş has positioned itself as an activities hub. Dive boats depart from the harbor daily, offering a range of experiences from Padi courses to advanced open-water dives. Bougainville Travel caters to both soft adventurers looking for kayaking trips and Jeep safaris, as well as those seeking thrilling activities like canyoning through impressive gorges.
One of the highlights of a visit to Kaş is a boat trip to Kekova island. This island is famous for the remains of the ancient city of Dolikisthe, which was lost to the sea after an earthquake in the second century AD. Swimming through the crystal-clear water with the remnants of a Byzantine church beneath you is a truly mesmerizing experience. While kayaking provides a more extensive view of the ruins, snorkeling allows for a deeper appreciation of the once imposing trading city. Kaleköy, located across from Kekova on the mainland, also houses partly submerged relics.
One surprising aspect of Kaş is its proximity to Greece, specifically the Greek island of Meis/Kastellorizo, one of the smallest islands in the Dodecanese archipelago, just a half-hour ferry ride away. A visit to Meis/Kastellorizo makes for an easy day trip, but it’s essential to book in advance and allow sufficient time for passport procedures before departing from Turkey.
Once on the island, it’s easy to explore in just a few hours. Boat taxis from the harbor can take you to Aya Georgio beach and the breathtaking Blue Cave. However, I usually prefer to wander among the neoclassical mansions that adorn the harbor, enjoying a leisurely lunch at one of the waterfront restaurants. The slightly higher price is worth it for the stunning view back across the water to the rooftops of Kaş.
While my heart lies in Kaş, I can’t resist a visit to Kalkan during my stay. The road from Kaş to Kalkan offers breathtaking views comparable to the Amalfi coast, with hairpin bends clinging to the mountainside. Previously, I would stop for a dip at Kaputas, a beautiful beach nestled between two cliffs, but its popularity on Instagram means that between 10:30 AM and 5 PM, finding a parking space and a sun lounger can be a challenge. I now time my visit for a sunset drink and dinner at the Blue Marlin, a hidden gem of a restaurant tucked away in the harbor, famous for its incredible meze.
When it comes to dining in Kaş, the atmosphere is more relaxed compared to the competitive restaurant scene in Kalkan. Most restaurants in Kaş still serve traditional Turkish dishes, with enticing meze trays and fresh fish. While it’s hard to go wrong, my recommendations include Beyhude Meyhane or Meydan. For vegetarian or vegan options, Oburus Momus is the place to go. Kaş also offers live music bars like Echo, providing a mellow and laid-back ambiance rather than a wild party scene.
After 25 years of visiting Kaş, there are still plenty of activities I haven’t tried. I always tell myself that I’ll walk a portion of the Lycian Way or go white-water rafting through the Toparlar canyon. Paragliding off Mount Assas is also an option, although I can never resist other enticing activities like sitting in the town’s leafy Çay Bahçesi (tea garden) on the main square, observing the world go by. Another must-visit is the bustling Friday market, where one can bargain for everything from T-shirts to spices, making it arguably the best market in the region.
But my absolute favorite thing to do in Kaş is to wake up early, grab some tea and simit from Aysun Pastahanesi on Bahçe Sokak, and sit on the harbor wall, witnessing the town slowly come to life, just as it has for decades. While tourism has undoubtedly brought changes to Turkey since my first visit in the 1990s, with the development of resorts and catering to European tastes, Kaş has managed to preserve its authentic Turkish essence, making it a true hidden gem.
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