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In this captivating tale, we delve into the world of love, obsession, and bagels shaped like rings. Meet Dan Martensen, a renowned fashion and portrait photographer who has worked with esteemed publications like i-D and Vogue, as well as top brands including Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. Martensen, a proud New Yorker from Westchester, made the move to north-west London in 2019 with his pregnant wife and three-year-old daughter. Shortly after their arrival, the pandemic struck, leaving Martensen longing for a taste of home: New York-style bagels.
Before we continue, it’s important to note that Martensen has an appreciation for East End-style bagels found at London’s beloved spots like Beigel Bake and Beigel Shop on Brick Lane. However, these are quite different from the bagels that hold a special place in his heart. New York bagels boast classic toppings such as poppy seed, sesame, onion, garlic, and the “everything” mix (which includes all of the above). They are also known for their crispiness, maltiness, and schmears (flavored cream cheeses) instead of salt beef or sandwich fillings. The chewiness of NY bagels is a topic of debate among bagel enthusiasts. Martensen’s selection of bagels with classic New York-style toppings is a sight to behold.
When asked why NY bagels hold such significance for him, Martensen compares it to the importance of tea for the British. Bagels serve as an essential part of his New York routine, enjoyed almost every other day and especially during Sunday brunches with family and friends. He reminisces about the times he would gather a dozen bagels, various schmears, and prepare tuna salad and egg salad for a feast. Every New Yorker has their favorite bagel shops in the neighborhood, and Martensen’s include Ess-A-Bagel in Midtown and Olde Brooklyn Bagel Shoppe in Prospect Heights. Russ & Daughters and Barney Greengrass also receive high praise for their schmears and smoked fish.
Martensen’s fixated on the bagel quest intensified when he found himself grounded in London due to the pandemic. He scoured Google Maps, biking around the city to find the perfect bagel shop. He even joined a local WhatsApp group to take advantage of a weekly bagel drop. Unfortunately, none of these experiences quite matched up to his expectations, except for the bagels from Papo’s Bagels in Dalston, owned by a husband-and-wife team from New York. However, Dalston was too far away to become a regular haunt. Determined to satisfy his cravings, Martensen took matters into his own hands and started making his own bagels. He initially saw it as a hobby and a way to explore his passion for creating things.
Everything changed when Martensen’s friend Chris Ammermann, co-owner of Caravan restaurants, introduced him to their head baker Jack Ponting. Together, they cracked the recipe and successfully produced bagels with a crispy exterior and a deeply flavorful chew that Martensen was proud to call his own. He excitedly messaged his WhatsApp group, and within a day, he received 250 orders. From there, things skyrocketed.
Fast forward to 2022, Martensen and his partner launched “It’s Bagels” at Caravan Roastery, offering delivery services through Slerp. Their venture gained endorsements from notable individuals like Alexa Chung, Laura Jackson, and Daisy Lowe. It’s Bagels joins the increasing number of NY-style bagel shops opening across the UK, including Bross Bagels in Edinburgh and King Baby Bagels in Newcastle. Martensen recently opened the first physical It’s Bagels shop in Primrose Hill, where customers can expect a classic range of bagels, a rotating selection of schmears (including Martensen’s personal favorite, jalapeño cream cheese), smoked fish, deli salads, and hot and cold beverages. This chapter marks the realization of a lifelong dream for Martensen, who has always wanted to open a restaurant. With his background working in kitchens since the age of 14, he finds similarities between the madness, heat, and rush of a kitchen and the world of photography.
Despite the stark contrast between bagels and high fashion, Martensen hopes that this journey serves as a valuable life lesson. He believes that everything can be seen through the lens of bagels. He embarked on this venture out of pure love for the idea, without placing unnecessary pressure on himself. It has been a fun and enjoyable experience, almost as if it never felt like work. Bagels have even started to infiltrate his studio practice, with Martensen recalling a photoshoot with Julianne Moore where he couldn’t resist asking her if she liked bagels.
Now, when it comes to celebrity endorsements, Martensen has high hopes, with his ideal endorsers being iconic Jewish actors like Eugene Levy, Larry David, or Jeff Goldblum. He amusingly recounts a missed opportunity to share bagels with Jeff Goldblum on a plane ride from Milan. From now on, he plans never to be without bagels, ensuring he always carries them with him.
To conclude this delightful journey into the world of bagels, we present you with two mouth-watering recipes to satisfy your cravings. The first is “The Works,” featuring spring onions, cream cheese, smoked lox, capers, dill, red onion, and lemon. The second is “BECSPK (Bacon, Egg, Cheese, Salt, Pepper, Ketchup),” encompassing streaky bacon, ketchup, butter, eggs, American cheese, and a bagel.
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