There has been much discussion this week about the length of Rishi Sunak’s trousers, with some critics finding the mid-ankle crop perplexing and potentially harmful to his political image. The fact that so much attention is given to such a trivial aspect, where his otherwise nondescript trouser leg meets his nondescript sock, speaks volumes about the state of UK politicians’ fashion choices. This is especially true for British prime ministers, who are not known for their interesting or well-dressed attire. However, there have been a select few who dared to showcase their personal style, even if it meant facing criticism or scrutiny.
One example is Augustus Henry Fitzroy, who was dubbed a Georgian-era dandy. Although he only served as prime minister for a short time between 1768 and 1770, he made an impression with his fashionable image. The third Duke of Grafton was associated with the “macaroni” style, which was a precursor to the dandy fashion trend. Despite being labeled as a “gambler, adulterer, and corrupt minister,” it remains unclear whether he actually embraced the macaroni dress. Nevertheless, caricaturists used this style to criticize him as a dishonest and indiscreet prime minister.
Another prime minister with a distinct fashion sense was Anthony Eden, who became known simply as “Eden” in the world of Savile Row. Serving as prime minister from 1955 to 1957, he was recognized for his single-breasted waistcoats, lounge suits, and homburg hat. While his legacy is often overshadowed by the Suez fiasco, it is noteworthy that he was an unexpected pioneer in the use of nail varnish. As one columnist put it, he was not only the “best-looking individual” to hold office in the 20th century but also the only British prime minister known for his varnished fingernails.
Benjamin Disraeli, a prime minister in the late 19th century, was unafraid to defy convention with his extravagant outfits. Clad in a velvet coat, purple trousers with a gold band, a scarlet waistcoat, long lace ruffles, and white gloves adorned with brilliant rings, Disraeli demonstrated a penchant for taking fashion risks. It is worth noting that few successors have followed in his footsteps, and perhaps more prime ministers should embrace such bold wardrobe choices.
Harold Wilson, a former Labour prime minister from the 1960s to the 1970s, became famous for his Gannex raincoat and pipe. His sartorial choices were seen as reassuring and trustworthy during prosperous times. However, critics used his pipe smoke and raincoat as symbols of his evasiveness and poor judgment when things went awry. Margaret Thatcher even made a quip about his raincoat in a speech, suggesting it failed to protect the country. Wilson’s association with Joseph Kagan, the inventor of the waterproof fabric used for Gannex coats, also caused controversy when Kagan was convicted of theft and lost his knighthood.
Tony Blair, known for his tenure as prime minister in the late 1990s and early 2000s, had a style that mirrored successful businesspeople of his generation. His Paul Smith suits were polished but unremarkable, and he adopted an informal and modern approach to his attire – a reflection of the New Labour movement’s modernity. Blair added subtle details to his outfits, such as hidden illustrations of naked ladies in his shirt cuffs and casually draping his suit jacket over his shoulder, showcasing his charm and relatability.
Theresa May, who served as prime minister from 2016 to 2019, made bolder fashion choices compared to her Westminster peers. While her delivery may have been robotic and neutral, she often experimented with her wardrobe. From her distinctive necklaces and vibrant suits to her occasional leopard-print kitten heels, May’s fashion sense stood out. Whether well-dressed or not, she certainly brought an element of intrigue to her outfits – like the “twofer” coat she wore on budget day, designed to look like two separate garments, or the bold gold leather trousers she sported for a Sunday Times photoshoot. One notable fashion moment was her decision to wear a ball gown when casting her ballot in the no-confidence vote against Boris Johnson.
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