Verona, a city known for its beauty throughout the year, becomes even more captivating this summer as it celebrates the 100th anniversary of its open-air opera held in the ancient arena. As I arrive for a performance of Rossini’s Barber of Seville, the sun begins to set, casting a velvety blue hue over the Roman amphitheater. 10,000 opera enthusiasts eagerly find their seats, while swifts glide through the darkening skies and vendors selling glossy brochures and cushions navigate the tiers, their sing-song cries filling the air.
The moment arrives, and Nicola Alaimo, portraying the paunchy Figaro in his 18th-century attire, takes the stage with a smile. He begins his famous tongue-twisting aria, and what unfolds over the next three hours is a delightful blend of ribald humor, opulently dressed dancers, and enchanting music that will make your toes tap in delight.
But the opera is not the only reason to visit Verona. The city itself is a charming destination that is easily navigable by foot. It resembles a mini Venice without the overwhelming tourist crowds and congested squares. Verona’s historic center is where locals live and work, creating a vibrant atmosphere. As you wander along the marble streets, you’ll discover scenes straight out of an opera set, with flower-filled courtyards, Renaissance balconies, faded frescoes, and grand piazzas adorned with statues.
I begin my exploration at Casa di Giulietta, a popular attraction despite its dubious connections to Shakespeare’s famous lovers. The medieval house provides a glimpse into the life of a nobleman, complete with beamed ceilings, antiques, and costumes from Zeffirelli’s renowned film. While you must book in advance to enter the house, you can still marvel at Juliet’s statue in the courtyard, covered in love messages etched onto ancient walls. You can even hold a wedding or stage a proposal here, although being rejected would certainly be witnessed by a crowd.
As the temperature rises, I seek respite by the fast-flowing Adige river. Underneath the Roman Ponte Pietra bridge, rapids cascade over rocks where herons perch, their wings spreading like umbrellas to catch the breeze. Crossing the bridge leads me to vibrant Veronetta, where I discover Giardino Giusti, a Renaissance walled garden adorned with box hedges, plumbago, cypresses, marble nymphs, and a grotto crowned with a grotesque mask.
Nearby, the impressive Roman theatre and archaeological museum await exploration. Alternatively, taking the funicular to Castel San Pietro offers a breathtaking sunset panorama, best enjoyed with an Aperol spritz from the adjoining café.
Verona’s culinary scene is a delight in itself, with countless options to satisfy your taste buds. I indulge in a delicious cheese platter at Salumeria Gironda, enjoying the view from a romantic terrace overlooking the Adige. The gelato is a must-try, with Gelateria Ponte Pietra offering unique flavors that will tantalize your palate. For lunch, I recommend La Bottega della Gina XXL, where you can witness cooks stretching and stuffing fresh pasta right before your eyes. And with Verona located in one of Italy’s renowned wine regions, be sure to experience the velvety reds, such as amarone and valpolicella ripasso, at the exquisite dark-wood wine bar, Bottega Vini.
Simply wandering through Verona brings unexpected delights. Piazza dei Signori, also known as Piazza Dante, showcases the poet’s lodgings with the Della Scala family, while a nearby square is home to elaborate gothic memorials of the ruling family. If you only have time to visit one church, make it San Zeno. This remarkable Romanesque basilica houses the remains of the eighth-century bishop of Verona, as well as magnificently preserved frescoes that narrate the city’s floods of 1568 and Andrea Mantegna’s vibrant altarpiece.
To indulge in Verona’s sensual pleasures, visit the city’s celebrated perfume shops. At The Merchant of Venice, I discover an array of intoxicating fragrances and end up purchasing a trial kit of their best scents. The perfumes perfectly capture the playful, extravagant nature of my night under the stars at Verona’s opera.
In conclusion, Verona is a city that mesmerizes visitors year-round, but the celebration of its open-air opera makes this summer the ideal time to experience its allure. From the enchanting performances in the ancient arena to the picturesque streets and delectable cuisine, Verona offers an unforgettable journey through history and culture.
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