In Spain, the art of eating and drinking can be enjoyed throughout the day. The transition from one meal to the next is seamless and if you’re doing it right, you can easily lose track of time.
However, it’s important to note that the Spanish have a different eating routine compared to other countries. Lunch is typically served after 2pm, with dinner starting no earlier than 9pm. In fact, it’s more common for dinner to be enjoyed after 10pm. So why do the Spanish eat so late?
It’s all about the position of the sun. In Spain, when the sun is at its highest point, it’s actually 1.30pm, not noon. If you consider mealtimes based on the sun’s position rather than the clock, the Spanish eating habits align with the rest of Europe. Dinner, which takes place approximately seven hours after lunch, also follows the European pattern. In this case, the question should be why the clocks are out of synch.
Prior to 1942, Spain observed Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), which is the same as the UK. However, General Franco made the decision to move the country’s clocks forward an hour to match Germany’s time zone, Central European Time (CET), or GMT+1. After the end of World War II, Spain continued to adhere to CET.
Geographically, Spain is located within the GMT zone. The Greenwich meridian runs through Castellón on the east coast, making the majority of the country west of it. This is the same for Portugal, the Canary Islands, and the UK, which all follow GMT. Galicia, in the northwest corner of Spain, is even further west and should technically be on GMT-1.
Another factor influencing the late eating times is the impact of poverty following the Spanish Civil War in the 1940s and 1950s. Many people had two jobs during this time, one in the early morning until 2pm and another in the late afternoon until late evening. As a result, meals had to be fit in around long working hours.
While there is a growing demand to return Spain to GMT, such a shift in routine would require other adjustments. For instance, major news bulletins are currently at 9pm, and popular TV programs, like soaps and reality shows, don’t start until around 10.15pm and often continue until at least 11.30pm. Additionally, many businesses and museums remain open until at least 8pm. While some companies now only allow an hour or less for lunch, many others still offer two hours or more, and some individuals in various professions may have to return to work until at least 7pm.
Nevertheless, regardless of their working hours or daily routines, the Spanish always find time to eat. While they may not be eating all day, every day, it can certainly seem that way. Interestingly, despite their indulgence in food, the general population in Spain is less overweight compared to the UK. This can largely be attributed to their adherence to proper mealtimes, avoiding excessive snacking on high-fat, low-nutrition foods that contribute to weight gain.
Wine at 11am? How to embrace the Spanish culinary experience
To fully immerse yourself in the gastronomic culture of Spain, skip breakfast at your hotel and head to a local bar instead. Any nearby bar will do, but opt for one that’s bustling with waiters hurrying around and saucers lined up on the counter for quick coffee service. Find a stool, and order a croissant or toast with butter and jam or olive oil and tomato. Alternatively, indulge in the calorie-rich combination of churros and chocolate. If it’s a chilly morning, ordering a carajillo (coffee with a splash of brandy) is perfectly acceptable.
After a light session of sightseeing, join the locals at a bar for elevenses, which often involves a slice of tortilla or a toasted sandwich. While this tradition can be found all over Spain, it is particularly cherished in the Valencia region, where it is known as “esmorzaret” and typically includes a massive baguette filled with a delectable combination of ingredients like morcilla sausage, egg, and peppers. At this point, a beer or a glass of wine pairs perfectly with the mid-morning snack.
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