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CNN — In Sardinia, there’s a powerful and fennel-flavored drink known as Filu ‘e Ferru, or “iron wire,” that is still being produced illegally in many households. With an alcohol concentration of up to 45%, this old beverage poses a serious risk and can knock out even those with a high tolerance.
Rosa Maria Scrugli experienced the potency of Filu ‘e Ferru first-hand when she went to the small town of Santu Lussurgiu in 1970. The town, located in the wild Oristano area of western Sardinia, has been producing this strong drink for over 400 years. Locally referred to as “abbardente,” meaning “burning water” in Latin, Filu ‘e Ferru is deeply ingrained in the town’s culture.
When Scrugli arrived, the mayor, who also happened to be the town’s cobbler, greeted her with several shots of Filu ‘e Ferru. However, after consuming just two shots, she nearly collapsed, unlike the mayor who was accustomed to the drink. “It was my first time, and it was a shock,” Scrugli recalls.
Santu Lussurgiu is known as the birthplace of the oldest Sardinian “acquavite” tradition. The terms “acquavite” and “abbardente” are synonymous with Filu ‘e Ferru. This metaphorical language was adopted to avoid police scrutiny. In the 19th century, when Italy imposed taxes on alcohol production, Filu ‘e Ferru became an illicit drink. Santu Lussurgiu became a hub for illegal production, and residents had to hide their bottles in secret places or underground in their gardens, marked by a piece of iron.
The name “iron wire” may have been inspired by the nearby volcanic mountain range called Montiferru, meaning “iron hill.” What sets Santu Lussurgiu’s acquavite apart from others in Sardinia is that it is distilled from wine instead of marc, a spirit made from grape residue. Carlo Psiche, the only legal distiller in Santu Lussurgiu, proudly claims that his Distillerie Lussurgesi is the only one in the region to use real wine for the distillation process.
While police raids were once common, things have become less risky in recent times. Homemade abbardente is still brewed secretly in the village, with the exception of Psiche’s legal business. In the past, when tax police patrolled the area, villagers would hurriedly hide their bottles and alembics while shouting the emergency code “Filu ‘e Ferru.”
Fennel seeds are added to Filu ‘e Ferru to mellow its pungent flavor. The strong scent of fennel occasionally helped the police identify illegal activity. To warn the village of raids, a village messenger would use a key separate from his usual trumpet duties.
Initially, Santu Lussurgiu had 40 distilleries by the late 1800s. However, they were shut down in the early 20th century, and production became purely domestic. Twenty years ago, Psiche, a former mechanic, revived the tradition of acquavite in the village. His abbardente, made with local white grapes, comes in two versions, both aged for a minimum of 12 months. The clear abbardente, diluted with water from a nearby source, has a distinct taste with hints of dried fruit and almonds. The amber abbardente, aged in oak barrels, has a sweet flavor reminiscent of honey and homemade bread.
In Sardinia, distillation of Filu ‘e Ferru was traditionally a women’s business. Wives, daughters, and grandmothers became experts in the art of distillation. Today, while preserving the alcoholic heritage, men like Psiche are also actively involved in the production process.
Filu ‘e Ferru, known for its fiery nature, is enjoyed by Sardinians throughout the day, even at breakfast. It is not uncommon to toast with a shot of abbardente, and it is often consumed during midnight wakes as a tribute to the deceased. Despite its dangers, the residents of Santu Lussurgiu continue to embody their ancestral traditions and believe that Filu ‘e Ferru can be consumed just like water.
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