In the stunning region of Rías Baixas, located in northwestern Spain and known as the home of albariño, the locals have a unique way of answering direct questions – with a simple yet profound response: “It depends.” But this answer isn’t a result of indecisiveness or ambiguity; it’s a reflection of the intricacies and complexities of the situations at hand. The people of Rías Baixas understand the importance of not oversimplifying matters.
When it comes to discussing the future of albariño or the best practices for growing the grapes and making the wines, winemakers in this region are hesitant to provide a definitive answer. They understand that the potential of albariño hinges on various factors and variables. The way the grapes are grown and the intended style of the wine play a crucial role in unlocking its true potential.
Rías Baixas finds itself at a crucial turning point. Since its establishment as an appellation in 1988, the region has focused on producing large quantities of albariño. This approach has resulted in an abundance of cheap, aromatic, and easily drinkable wines. Unfortunately, this has led many to perceive albariño as a one-dimensional commodity wine.
However, as is often the case with wine, preconceived notions about a grape’s limitations can be shattered when producers approach it with ambition. Just look at the transformations experienced by other grape varieties like aligoté, silvaner, and bobal. By farming albariño with care and experimenting with different winemaking techniques, a growing community of farmers and producers in Rías Baixas is proving that age-worthy and complex wines can emerge from this grape.
These innovative winemakers are not only reimagining the potential of albariño but also exploring the region’s history. They are reviving forgotten grape varieties, rediscovering neglected vineyards, and achieving excellence, much like other renowned wine regions in Spain, such as sherry country and Sierra de Gredos.
Rather than settling for simplicity and fruitiness, these producers in Rías Baixas are crafting distinctive albariños that evoke a sense of contemplation. These wines are savory and saline, reminiscent of the bottles from the past when albariño was considered an aristocratic wine. Back then, the rich were the only ones who could afford to grow white grapes, while red grapes were a daily staple for the rest of the population.
The unique terroir of Rías Baixas, characterized by the omnipresence of granite, shapes the wines and gives them their distinct character. The region’s climate, influenced by its proximity to the Atlantic, brings high humidity and the constant threat of mildew and rot. To combat these challenges, local farmers developed a pergola-like parra system, made entirely of granite, allowing air circulation and mitigating humidity while enabling the cultivation of other crops underneath.
Historically, Rías Baixas consisted of small vineyards dotted throughout the region, with the parra system being widely adopted. However, the surge in popularity of albariño has led to some negative consequences. Companies and cooperatives producing cheap albariños have started planting in fertile soils, outbidding local producers for grapes. This has disrupted the market and diminished the quality of the wines.
Nonetheless, exceptional producers continue to uphold the tradition of crafting long-lived albariños. Estates like Do Ferreiro and Pazo de Señorans have been producing multidimensional albariños since the 1990s. These wines exemplify the potential of albariño to age gracefully and offer complexity.
Do Ferreiro, led by Gerardo Méndez and now joined by his son and daughter, maintains its commitment to producing wines that can be cellared. Their basic albariño is delicious and can age for over a decade, while their Do Ferreiro Cepas Vellas, made from old vines, is truly a treat with its intensity and concentration.
Pazo de Señorans, a larger estate with a long-standing history, has also stayed true to its style since its inception. Their Selección de Añada, aged at the winery for a decade before release, showcases the age-worthiness of albariño. The 2013 vintage is creamy, saline, and mineral-driven, while the 2005 vintage is currently at its peak with its freshness and expressiveness.
Other exceptional albariño producers worth seeking out include Rodrigo Méndez, nephew of Gerardo Méndez, and his Leirana label, as well as Bodegas Albamar, where Xurxo Alba is dedicated to organic and biodynamic viticulture. These producers are pushing the boundaries of albariño and creating superb bottles that reflect the uniqueness of the region.
It’s important to note that these exceptional albariños may come with a higher price tag compared to the mass-produced counterparts. However, the investment is entirely worthwhile, as these wines offer a level of depth and character that can’t be found in the cheaper options. Even their entry-level cuvées are a significant step above the rest.
In conclusion, the future of albariño in Rías Baixas is full of potential, thanks to the dedication and innovation of its winemakers. By embracing the complexity of the grape and exploring different farming and winemaking methods, these producers are proving that albariño can exceed expectations, offering age-worthy and captivating wines. The wines from Rías Baixas are a testament to the region’s rich history and unique terroir, rooted in granite and shaped by a challenging yet rewarding climate. So, the next time you ask a winemaker in Rías Baixas about albariño, don’t be surprised if their answer is, “It depends.”
Denial of responsibility! VigourTimes is an automatic aggregator of Global media. In each content, the hyperlink to the primary source is specified. All trademarks belong to their rightful owners, and all materials to their authors. For any complaint, please reach us at – [email protected]. We will take necessary action within 24 hours.
