Clematis, those beautiful climbing flowers, are often affected by a disease called clematis wilt. Similarly, as someone who is always pursuing beauty, I find myself afflicted by a related disease called clematis-wish. It strikes me every August, and despite past failures, I am always drawn back for more.
Clematis wilt is typically caused by dry weather, as most cases simply result from the flowers becoming too dry and needing a good soaking. On the other hand, clematis-wish is most prevalent in cool, wet summers, like the one currently being enjoyed by British gardeners. The flowerbeds are vibrant and in bloom, but it is too early to plant bulbs and too late to fix any gaps in the overall picture. Clematis acts as the “icing on the cake” for a fully developed flowerbed, completing the look that I imagine in my mind’s eye. I read lists of clematis varieties, fall in love with their pictures, and then go out and purchase them, hoping that this time I can finally please myself.
In smaller gardens, it is easier to give attention to your wishes and cater to their specific needs. However, in larger gardens like mine, the clematis must take what they can get. My greatest success has been with herbaceous clematis. I particularly enjoy the scented mid-blue flowers of the Cassandra variety, which is the best upright freestanding clematis for borders in my opinion. It stands at about 3ft tall and is very robust, but it does not thrive when crowded by strong neighboring plants.
Another excellent clematis variety that exemplifies the nature of the entire family is Clematis jouiniana. Although clematis are typically listed as climbers, they do not naturally cling and climb on their own. They require wire netting or other plants as support. However, jouiniana performs best when allowed to fall forward, even onto bare ground. In winter, the dead stems should be pruned away, similar to herbaceous geraniums. I have found great success with jouiniana growing on a nearby yew hedge, where it covers itself in flowers every year.
In my garden, I often plant clematis to grow alongside other plants on walls, especially roses. However, these combinations do not always last more than a decade. My successes in this area have primarily been with clematis from the viticella group, such as the green and white-flowered alba luxurians and the stunning sky blue Emilia Plater. Planting a viticella clematis about 3ft away from the main stem and roots of a mature shrub and pointing its supporting cane towards the lower branches of the shrub has worked well for me.
Last summer’s drought did not bode well for clematis in these positions, but this year’s cool weather has been optimal for their recovery. Pruning viticella clematis is simple: cut them down to about 6in from the ground in late winter and discard the top growth. The supporting shrub then blooms, and the clematis climbs back up afterwards, resulting in two sequential shows of flowers in one space.
In smaller gardens, utilizing all available levels and using clematis to cover surfaces is one of the best ways to maximize space. Late summer is a time of hope, when gardeners can plan how many clematis they can include for the following year.
For those in the UK looking to purchase clematis via mail order, two highly recommended sources are Taylors Clematis in Sutton near Doncaster and Thorncroft Clematis near Tewkesbury. Taylors is currently offering special deals with some varieties discounted by almost 40%. They have a selection of excellent viticella varieties.
Raymond Evison on Guernsey is considered a master grower and breeder of clematis. His nursery also offers mail order service. In his handbook, Evison suggests that evergreen host plants such as ceanothus, pyracantha, and Garrya elliptica make marvelous companions for clematis. However, I find it difficult to imagine a clematis thriving in dried-out ground around a ceanothus. In damp shade, however, my Garrya is recovering well from last winter. Acting on clematis-wish, I recently purchased one of Evison’s recommendations, his pale ice-blue Tranquilité, which pairs nicely with the dark green leaves of the Garrya. He also suggests his dark rose-red Rosemoor and the recently released white variety, Tsukiko.
Many gardeners suggest planting a tall clematis next to a newly planted climbing rose. While I have shared and acted upon this advice myself, I have found that the clematis in such combinations do not often have a long lifespan. My favorite combination still remains the tall blue Perle d’Azur, which produces rounded flowers with rose-pink bars at their centers, racing to the top of a medium-high climbing rose in a single season. However, after recent dry summers and 10 years of coexistence with the apricot rose Lady Hillingdon, the Perle d’Azur has lost its vigor.
Regular watering is crucial for optimal growth of clematis, especially when planted in combinations, and a balanced plant food like Phostrogen is highly recommended. Starting early with feeding, preferably in April, can make a significant difference. My current clematis-wish is to apply this feeding regimen to the Duchess of Cornwall variety. Despite not actually being named after her, the Duchess of Cornwall clematis is a large-flowered deep violet-blue variety with a striking white central boss of stamens and a habit of blooming in early and late summer. Standing up to 5ft tall, it is an excellent choice to position beside shrubs that flower earlier. I have just planted this variety, and if I am unsuccessful, clematis-wish will certainly make me attempt to please it a second time.
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