The Captivating Story of Yotam Ottolenghi’s Love Affair with Soba Noodles: Unveiling the Delicious Journey

I have been cooking soba noodles for a long time, even before I had the chance to experience the authentic version. (I must clarify that I am not a food purist and don’t believe there is a single right way to cook anything.)

Recently, I had a flashback to a gastronomic tour I took in Tokyo over ten years ago. I realized that I had actually visited Kanda Yabu Soba, a revered soba restaurant, after already cooking soba noodles multiple times. It turns out, my love affair with soba started before that visit. In a way, this is a good thing because it allowed me the freedom to experiment with the noodles without any reservations.



There are various ways to serve and cook soba noodles in Japan. However, to me, nothing compares to the purest version. It involves serving the noodles cold on a bamboo tray called zaru, with a simple dipping sauce made of dashi, soy, and mirin. Eating these noodles with reverence and dipping them in the sauce using chopsticks is a solemn experience that showcases their purity.

At Kanda Yabu Soba, I found myself surrounded by Japanese businessmen during their lunch breaks. I was the only foreigner, witnessing what felt like a semi-religious ceremony. I was captivated by the atmosphere and returned the next day to enjoy my cold soba once again, this time with tempura shrimp.

The appeal of fresh soba noodles lies in their light and bouncy texture. They maintain this texture better when served cold rather than in a hot broth, which tends to make them softer. The combination of buckwheat and wheat flour creates this unique texture. Buckwheat flour alone produces brittle noodles, but the addition of wheat flour adds tenderness and chewiness without becoming overly glutinous. Commercial dried soba noodles retain some of this texture and flavor, as long as they are not overcooked. That’s why it’s crucial to rinse them under cold water when they’re al dente.

An ingredient with an innate gift for playing well with others.

Once your soba noodles are cooked and refreshed, you can use them in a cold broth, like in this recipe. They are accompanied by grilled corn, shiitake mushrooms, and freshly grated tomato to achieve a delightful balance of sweetness, acidity, and umami.

If you prefer to skip making the flavored broth, you can simply season your noodles with soy sauce, sesame oil, and nori strips. This minimalist approach can be expanded by adding ingredients like mirin, grated ginger, sliced or grated radish, and fresh herbs such as cilantro, shiso, mint, or basil.

During the summer months, I enjoy refreshing salads, and one of my favorites is a soba and avocado salad with cardamom, lime, and pistachios. It takes only 15 minutes to make and offers a satisfying meal. Another option from my book “Plenty” is a soba noodle salad with mango and eggplant, which requires a little more effort but rewards you with the nuttiness of soba and a delicious combination of sweet and savory flavors. It’s one of my most frequently cooked dishes.

Soba noodles have a magical quality that allows them to be a versatile base for light salads, soups, and quick meals. You can build upon their textural glory and add whatever ingredients you desire at the moment. In Japan, soba noodles symbolize kinship, and it is customary to give soba as a gift to a new neighbor. The word “soba” also means “close to,” representing the hope for a positive experience living side by side. This concept is reflected in a well-balanced bowl of soba noodles.


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