Queues at shoe stores during the back-to-school shopping season are not uncommon, but this year there’s an unexpected surge in demand for Mary Janes among adults. Women’s footwear brands have noticed a significant increase in sales for this classic playground style. John Lewis, for example, has an ever-growing waiting list of 800 people eagerly awaiting the restock of their £59 flat leather Mary Janes called the Harrietta. The shoes, which were first launched in 2022, have experienced triple-digit growth in recent weeks, with the black and cream color options already sold out. Louise Sole, a shoe buyer for John Lewis, explains that their in-house design team aimed to create a shoe that perfectly balances comfort, aesthetics, quality, and price. They describe their version of the Mary Jane as a shoe that “cocoon the foot like a glove”.
Vagabond’s Vivian pumps, featuring a low block heel, also sold out quickly within days of launching online. The Swedish brand has struggled to keep up with the high demand, despite multiple restocks. Clarks and luxury online retailers like Net-a-Porter also have waiting lists for their double-strapped Daiss30 style and Aeyde’s squared-toe Mary Janes, respectively. Aeyde’s co-founder, Luisa Dames, praises her brand’s UMA version of the Mary Janes for being extremely flattering and easy to wear due to the tight strap. Celebrities like Gigi Hadid and Zoë Kravitz have been seen championing Mary Janes, and even Andie Macdowell’s daughter, Margaret Qualley, chose a flat white pair for her recent wedding ceremony and after-party. TikTok has also seen an influx of styling videos featuring Mary Janes, accumulating over 170 million views.
According to Hannah Almassi, the editor of Who What Wear UK, prioritizing comfort has become increasingly important in recent years. Therefore, the Mary Jane’s ability to combine a high fashion aesthetic with comfort makes it the perfect candidate to become a popular trend once again. With a flat or manageable heel height, Mary Janes are ideal for those returning to the office after a summer of wearing sliders. Despite their resemblance to orthopedic shoes, Daisy Murray, the digital fashion editor of Elle magazine, emphasizes that Mary Janes have a timeless appeal.
Originally named after a character in a 1902 comic strip called Buster Brown, Mary Janes first gained popularity in the 1920s. They were worn by Twiggy in the 1960s and became a style staple thanks to Jane Birkin in the 1970s. Alexa Chung gave them a new playful touch during the mid-2000s, and now, with the resurgence of 1990s trends led by Gen Z, Mary Janes are back in fashion. Alexa Chung herself is once again sporting her beloved Mary Janes, this time from the London-based brand Le Monde Beryl. Lily Atherton Hanbury, co-founder of Le Monde Beryl, describes Mary Janes as a classic style with stylish associations that can be both feminine and tomboyish. The versatility of Mary Janes makes them the perfect shoe for the current era of hybrid working.
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