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As someone who is notoriously bad with directions, I’ve had my fair share of unexpected adventures. One such adventure led me to a hidden gem of a barbecue joint in Lisbon. While I had boarded the wrong train and ended up in a quiet residential area, the resulting culinary experience made it all worthwhile.
With an empty stomach and a craving for something delicious, I followed the enticing aroma of charred chicken and spices. I stumbled upon a local churrascaria, where it seemed like the entire neighborhood had gathered for Sunday lunch. If I lived nearby, I would become a regular here without a doubt.
The menu at this place was a feast of local delicacies, but the true star of the show was the frango: a juicy, charred, spatchcocked chicken seasoned with peri-peri sauce. Its succulent meat and perfectly charred skin, packed with a delightful spicy kick, left even the famous grilled-chicken chain in the country in the shade.
Peri-peri chicken can be prepared in various ways, influenced by Portugal’s former African colonies, but a generous amount of chili is crucial for complexity and heat. The frango I had was served with a generous portion of crispy, golden-brown potatoes and a jug of refreshing vinho verde. Of course, there was extra peri-peri sauce for those who couldn’t get enough heat.
The meal was both comforting and elegant, with the sticky, flavorful meat easily falling off the bones. It served as a reminder that chicken reigns supreme and that the journey itself is often more important than the destination.
Spatchcock barbecued peri-peri chicken
Serves 4
For the dry brine
For the peri-peri marinade
For the mojo verde
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Begin by brining the chicken. Put all the ingredients into a mortar and grind to a coarse powder. Rub the brine all over the chicken. Put a cooling rack over a tray and sit the chicken on top. Chill uncovered in the fridge for at least four hours, preferably overnight, but no longer than 24 hours.
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To make the marinade, put the lemon in a saucepan and submerge it in water — put a heatproof plate over it to stop it from floating up. Bring it to the boil and simmer for about 30 minutes until it is completely soft. Drain and set aside to cool, then cut into wedges.
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In a food processor, blend together the cooked lemon wedges, garlic, chili, paprika, and olive oil.
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Remove the chicken from the fridge and pat off as much of the marinade and moisture as possible. Slash the chicken over the breast, legs, and thighs with a sharp knife, then rub three-quarters of the marinade all over it. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for two to four hours, or preferably overnight.
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Make the mojo verde by whizzing together all the ingredients in a food processor. Set aside until you are ready to use.
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To cook the chicken, remove it from the fridge and bring it to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 220C and place the chicken on a roasting tray. Season all over and cook for 45 minutes to an hour. Dilute the remaining marinade with water to thin it out, then baste the chicken with it a few times while cooking.
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If you prefer to use a barbecue, heat it to a steady medium heat. Grill the chicken skin-side down until the skin is burnished and crisp, then turn it over and continue cooking for 30 to 40 minutes, brushing regularly with the diluted marinade.
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Serve with the mojo verde.
Ravinder Bhogal is chef-patron of Jikoni. Follow Ravinder @cookinboots/@cookinboots
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