CNN — After residing in Beijing for nearly 12 years, my extensive travels throughout China have allowed me to explore more than 100 cities, along with numerous towns and villages across the country’s 31 provinces. Reflecting on my experiences, I’ve come to realize that it was my frequent visits to different sections of the Great Wall in Beijing that sparked my curiosity to further explore the rest of the country, including the lesser-known parts of the wall beyond the capital.
Construction on the Great Wall began over 2,500 years ago during China’s Spring and Autumn Period, with various sections being added over the years as different dynasties and factions vied for control. The work eventually ceased in the 17th century. Although the wall is not a single, continuous structure, it stretches over 21,000 kilometers, winding its way through 15 provinces, 97 prefectures, and 404 counties. While certain sections have become popular tourist destinations, many parts have been forgotten, fallen into disrepair, or even disappeared completely.
Regardless of whether you are planning your first or fiftieth visit to the Great Wall, the following destinations are guaranteed to enhance your trip to China. These unique sites showcase that the Great Wall is more than just a brick and mortar defense; it encompasses towers perched on jagged mountain peaks, fortress towns, and even wide rivers that act as sections of the wall.
Turtle City, located in Gansu province, was built as part of the Great Wall’s “Yellow River Defense Line” during the Ming Dynasty. This fortress city, completed in 1608, boasted a garrison of approximately 2,000 infantrymen and 500 cavalry units at its peak. While the name may be deceiving as there are not many actual turtles, the town’s layout resembles a turtle, with its gates representing the head, flippers, body, and tail. Turtle City is one of the best-preserved and most authentic walled cities in China today, making it a definite must-visit. Staying in Jingtai County center is recommended, as it is only a short taxi ride away and allows for optimal lighting conditions for photography. Additionally, don’t miss the opportunity to indulge in local specialties such as the five Buddha tofu and Jingtai cold mixed noodles, both delicious spicy vegetarian dishes. For the more adventurous foodies, exploring the night market in Jingtai County People’s Square, featuring over 50 snack stalls, is highly recommended.
To reach Turtle City, you can fly into Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu province, which has an international airport and high-speed train connections from various cities in China. The drive from downtown Lanzhou takes about 2.5 hours, while the journey from Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport is only 1.5 hours.
Mutianyu and Jiankou are two adjacent sections of the Great Wall, collectively known as the Stone Dragon, stretching approximately 25 kilometers along the mountaintops of Beijing. Historical records indicate that millions of men dedicated centuries to constructing the Great Wall. Standing atop either Mutianyu or Jiankou allows for a profound appreciation of the magnitude of this feat. These two sections are considered the most iconic surviving examples of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall and promise to provide a life-changing experience. Mutianyu, often referred to as the “tourist wall,” has been restored and offers a commercialized yet incredibly beautiful experience. If hiking is not your preference, you can take a cable car to the top. To the west of Mutianyu lies Jiankou, colloquially known as the “wild wall,” offering an untamed and less crowded alternative. It is worth noting that hiking at Jiankou has become somewhat discouraged by the local government due to safety concerns. While both sections are less than a 90-minute drive from downtown Beijing, it is highly advisable to spend a night in the countryside to fully immerse yourself in the experience. In Xizhazi village, you may even have the opportunity to intersect with world-renowned Great Wall historian William Lindesay and his lovely family at their wall-side courtyard home, The Barracks. For accommodations near Mutianyu, The Brickyard comes highly recommended. The contrasting hues of the gray brick wall against nature’s vibrant colors during peak fall foliage or spring cherry blossoms create the perfect backdrop for stunning photographs. Furthermore, winter sports enthusiasts will find skiing and skating options near Mutianyu.
To reach Mutianyu, you can rent a car as temporary driving licenses for foreigners are now permitted in China. Alternatively, hiring a car with a driver or taking the Mutianyu Special Tourism Bus from Dongzhimen Wai Bus Station are convenient transport options. As for Jiankou, renting a car or arranging private transportation is recommended, as public buses are scarce and can take up to five hours.
Bataizi village is situated within the Motianling section of the Great Wall and is notable for the ruins of a Gothic church constructed in 1876 under a German missionary’s guidance. Over the years, the church has undergone several damages and repairs, with only the bell tower remaining intact. The juxtaposition of the church ruins against the rammed-earth Great Wall makes Bataizi a captivating location to spend a morning or afternoon. After completing your hike along the wall and exploring the church ruins, be sure to visit the “new” church in the village and meet Father Pan. If you can communicate in Chinese, he can provide insights into the village’s long-standing connection with Catholicism. Additionally, during your trip, plan a visit to Datong to witness the wonders of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Yungang Grottoes, and the magnificent Hengshan Hanging Temple. Late summer showcases a stunning contrast between the lush green hills and the Great Wall at Bataizi.
To reach Bataizi, you can travel 80 kilometers west of Datong, a renowned city in Shanxi province that can be easily accessed by plane or high-speed train. A taxi from downtown Datong to Bataizi should cost around 300 yuan (approximately $43). Another option is to travel to Zuoyun County by bus and then take a taxi to Bataizi. In terms of accommodations, luxury seekers will enjoy the five-star Yunzhong Traditional Courtyard Hotel in Datong, while Zuoyun Jinshan International Hotel in Zuoyun County can accommodate foreigners.
Finally, Laoniuwan, known as the place where the Great Wall meets the mighty Yellow River, must not be overlooked. The Laoniuwan Fortress was constructed in 1467, and the Wanghe Tower, the most famous tower in this area, was built in 1544. Located in Pianguan County of Xinzhou city in Shanxi province, just across the river from Inner Mongolia, Laoniuwan offers a breathtaking sight, particularly in late summer or early fall when the dangers of spring rainstorms have subsided, and the weather is not uncomfortably cold. Along the Great Wall, there are only a handful of locations where it intersects bodies of water, and among them, this one is the most awe-inspiring. Don’t miss the opportunity to take a boat ride along the river, immersing yourself in the natural beauty of the Yellow River Gorge while marveling at the architectural brilliance of the ancient builders.
To reach Laoniuwan, renting or booking a car to travel from Datong to Laoniuwan via Bataizi is the best option, ensuring a seamless journey. However, public transportation to Laoniuwan is limited. It is also advisable to steer clear of mountain roads during spring rainstorms and bear in mind that the area lacks developed infrastructure.
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