Birdsong fills the air as I make my way through the stunning scenery of Dundreggan, the rewilded estate of Trees for Life in Glenmoriston, Scottish Highlands. The sound of woodpeckers and cuckoos echoes around me, while finches and thrushes flit from tree to tree, careful to avoid the lichens hanging from the branches.
I am the first human to venture into the forest this morning, having spent the night at the Dundreggan Rewilding Centre. This unique facility, opened in April, offers 20 comfortable rooms in An Spiris, a beautifully designed accommodation block. According to Laurelin Cummins-Fraser, the director of the rewilding centre, the goal is to make nature accessible to everyone and serve as a gateway to the landscape.
Dundreggan is an example of successful rewilding, with Trees for Life transforming the 4,047-hectare estate since its purchase in 2008. The landscape has flourished, thanks to the reduction of deer numbers from 16 per square kilometer to five. This has allowed for the regeneration of woodlands, resulting in over 4,000 species of plants and animals, including rare globeflowers and red squirrels. Golden eagles even returned to the area in 2020 after the installation of eyries by ecologist Roy Dennis.
As I embark on a walk along the Heather Path, I learn about the symbiotic relationship between Scots pine trees and Scottish crossbills. The path also highlights the positive impact of wild boars, which were reintroduced to the estate in 2009, on soil health and new life. The presence of red squirrels adds to the diversity of species at Dundreggan.
The rewilding centre itself tells the story of a past where humans coexisted with majestic creatures like lynx, eagles, and aurochs. It also sheds light on the degradation of the Highland landscape over the centuries due to factors such as the Highland Clearances. Despite the challenges, Trees for Life aims to bring back the Caledonian forest and Gaelic culture and language – both of which exist only in remnants today.
The rewilded forests of Dundreggan leave a lasting impression. Their messy, diverse composition contrasts with the monoculture plantations found elsewhere. Trees of different sizes, shapes, and species create a dynamic and thriving ecosystem.
Trees for Life doesn’t just focus on ecological restoration; it also seeks to bring people back to nature. Last year, the organization welcomed around 1,000 visitors, most of whom were volunteers. With the new rewilding centre in place, they hope to attract 30,000 visitors in the first year alone. Events such as storytelling, bushcraft workshops, and foraging and photography classes offer engaging opportunities to connect with the natural world.
Since its establishment by ecologist Alan Watson Featherstone in 1986, Trees for Life has accomplished significant reforestation efforts in Glen Affric. Almost 2 million trees have been planted, and the restoration work continues as part of the larger Affric Highlands project established in collaboration with Rewilding Europe. This ambitious 30-year initiative aims to regenerate a vast area from Loch Ness to Kintail, promoting the revival of both nature and local livelihoods.
I had the chance to witness the progress of rewilding on the Affric-Kintail Way, a 44-mile route that showcases the diversity of the landscape. From agricultural areas with livestock to the untamed beauty of Glen Affric, the trail leads through a spectrum of vegetation types and habitats, providing a glimpse into the complexities of modern land use.
As I reach the end of my journey, I reflect on the vision of Stephanie Kiel, the Affric Highlands team leader. In 30 years, she hopes to see a landscape with a restored and thriving ecosystem, enriched by diverse wildlife and the presence of people who appreciate and enjoy it. This vision aligns with the goals of Trees for Life – to revive the Caledonian forest and Gaelic culture while fostering a deep connection between people and nature.
For those looking to experience the wonders of rewilding firsthand, An Spiris offers comfortable accommodation starting at £125 per night. With a two-night minimum stay, guests can enjoy breakfast in the rewilding centre and receive £10 towards an activity or tour. Alternatively, Glen Affric youth hostel offers budget-friendly accommodation at £26 per bed per night.
By supporting initiatives like Trees for Life and experiencing the magic of rewilding, we can contribute to the restoration of our natural world and the preservation of our cultural heritage.
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